I am using ruida controller 6332G. I am trying to engrave a photo with low power 6% and low speed 50mm/sec. But my laser does not out put at these settings. It only gives output above 8% of power.
My minimum power setting for laser in the ruida controller is 1%.
What could be causing the issue .Please check the attached snapshot of settings in LB.
CO2 lasers require a minimum power level to fire. 8% is the same minimum that my 100W requires.
It’s called the ionization point of the tube, and it’s a properly of glass tube CO2 lasers. The minimum firing value tends to be roughly 10% of the wattage of the tube, because bigger tubes need a bigger kick to fire them.
There’s a setting called ‘Engraving mode’ in the machine settings that you can change from ‘Common mode’ to ‘Special mode’ - with this setting, the tube is given a higher power kick for just a moment, and then the power is backed off, because it takes less to keep the laser firing than it does to start it firing. This will let you engrave at lower power, but it also stresses the tube and will reduce the lifespan somewhat.
My suggestion would be to go faster.
I understand now. I been trying to get to the point where i just burn the wood with low power and low speed. Higher power tends vaporize the wood and leaves brownish color when engraved. i read somewhere on reddit low power ,low speed and high dpi gives that burning color (black) on wood .But it takes lot of time to engrave a picture with those kind of settings .But the results are good.
What would be your suggestion for power and dpi for faster speeds.
You can run lower speed if you defocus a little bit, but that will lose a little detail. I have no suggestions at this point because I have no idea what power your machine is. 
Your profile simply says “Ruida”.
Its 6332G 100 w co2 laser .
When you say defocus you mean to take focal lens away or towards the work piece?
Try this on for size:
On the wood you are wanting to engrave (burn), mask the surface with paper transfer tape (this is the stuff used in the sign industry to transfer lettering). If you don’t have any transfer tape at your disposal, you can substitute some blue painter’s tape (but that often requires multiple strips to be carefully placed side by side trying not to have overlapping tape).
A smooth surface to your material is key. So if you need, be sure to sand with a high grit and vacuum clean the residual dust before taping.
The tape protects the area of wood that you’re not targeting with the laser from ghosting, soot, and other markings. When the job is done, unmask.
This will change your options on speed and power approach. The key for dark wood usually is time (slower speed) over power. Wood type makes a ton of difference on the result though (and the possibilities for the settings).
Two other important factors: Fume extraction and air assist.
Oh, and there’s always this sorcery 
Ya i did try this . But the darker part is actually sooth left after burning by laser . Goes way when you run under water .
On the other hand I will try transfer paper method and see how it turns out .
This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.
