Hi all,
I bought an Official Lightburn Camera back in April this year and have just started trying to set it up. The order email does not tell me which lens I bought, and I have no idea which option I chose. Is there any way to tell which lens the camera has on it? I can’t see any markings at all.
Ok, so after posting I actually engaged my brain a little. If I mark where the camera cuts off on my machine, and measure the angle from the mark to the camera, does this tell me the lens angle? Doubled of course.
It doesn’t, because that’s not the only thing that affects the view. Did you purchase from us? I’m not seeing any orders in our system under your name or email address. If you bought from Cohesion3D you would have a 140, because that’s the only variant they carry.
Ahh, ok. It was through Cohesion3D. I was a little confused why I couldn’t remember making the choice. Thank you.
i purchased a used laser cutter that came with a lightburn camera. Is there a way to tell which model it is? the bed area is 500x700 and the camera seems to cover that. btw, I did email the seller but he wasn’t sure.
If it’s a 5mp I’m thinking the 8 mp model might be a better resolution.
The original box has the handwritten numbers17965 but that might not mean anything.
If that’s an order number, and you bought from a guy named Walter, then you have a 140 degree 5mp camera.
BINGO!
That’s it.
Does upgrading to the 8mp camera add a noticeable improvement in captured image?
it certainly worth it to me to get better accuracy.
Thanks!
The optics are better, so the image is likely to be better, but it likely won’t get you better accuracy. What you need for that is the camera to be in the same spot, every time, and to maximize the amount of the bed area you see in the camera view.
For example, this is the view in a typical red/black machine from the 160 degree camera, with the bed area highlighted in red:
All the stuff you see outside that red rectangle is wasted image. This is the same machine, viewed
through a 120 degree lens:
You can see that much more of the bed of the machine is filling the view, and if you include the bulge from the fisheye effect, very little is wasted, so this is ideal.
The lid, or the struts that hold it, are generally the weak point - if the lid opens to a place that’s 1 millimeter different from where it was calibrated, your placement will be off by that millimeter. Using something like a small steel retaining cable to hold the lid to exactly the same opening height every time, or a metal brace like you’d see on cabinet door, will likely improve the accuracy more than a better camera would, and it’d be cheaper, so I’d try that first.
I’ll do that. Thank you!
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