In the picture, the Ruida controller module is on the left, to the right and stacked one-above-the-other are the stepper motor driver modules and then to the far right in the picture is the 24V power supply.
That 24V power supply has 3 outputs for supplying power to 1-Ruida controller and 2 for the stepper motor driver modules. I don’t know which order they are in but you can see the 3 pairs of thicker red/blue wires and their connectors.
This is a shot in the dark but I once had a 3D printer which worked but had odd stepper motor problems and it was because the 220/110 switch was in the wrong position. It was set for 220 when I was putting in 110. It showed 24V unloaded but once it was motors were moving the 24V was sagging and motors were not getting full 24V. I would ask them where the switch on the 24V power supply is for the 220/110 operation. This could also explain why the problem moved from the X axis to the Y axis as the motors and mechanicals worked themselves in from being brand new.
I drew a little sketch up, maybe that will help you understand what we are doing here or attempting to do.
In this sketch, the signal flow comes from the controller, it signals the motor driver (MD *) what to do then the motor driver puts the correct power controls to the motor itself.
If you swap it at A (controller output/motor driver input) and there is not change, the only ‘things’ downstream are the motor drivers and the motors…
If you swap them at B the only thing downstream is the motor. If the problem doesn’t follow the cable swap then it must be the motor.
If you swap them at B and the problem follows the cable swap then it’s the motor driver.
They only asked me to swap them at the drivers, so I assumed the drivers were the bits I rectangle out in my picture above which is the only leads I swapped around the X-axis and Y-axis ones in the drivers.
Then they asked me to start it up and try the directional buttons on the control panel.
Which I did and I still only had motion on the X-axis to move left and right and the Y-axis was still grinding and would not move up and down.
So I assumed that cancelled out that the drivers were working and ok
With the leads swapped around everything was still the same.
If your laser is anything like mine it has a dual shaft stepper mounted on the middle back of the rear gantry frame. There are 2 couplers on either side that connect to rods that have a belt on each side of the gantry. If any of those connections are binding it will give you problems.
No I do not have a rotary, I wanted to learn just the laser first as is without any other accessories just to see how I got on with that. My partner started with a K40 and I persuaded him to upgrade to a larger laser bed size and machine as it was becoming an issue getting hold of materials in only A4 size etc.
Plus it would be a good addition to our business being able to cut larger items and purchase larger sheet sizes. I have only cut or engraved wood or acrylic on this machine so far.
This OMTech laser was what we agreed to get, but bearing in mind it’s now 7 weeks old since we received it so far we have had a total of 3 issues. 2 of these issues have put it out of action completely.
Our very first problem about 3 weeks into owning it was “Jog Distance is 0, please reset” which randomly came up on the control panel and I was not able to use the arrow keys on the control panel of the laser to move it around I could only move it in LightBurn. So after a little bit of digging around I found that if I set the controller to “Continuous” that would resolve the issue.
Then one week after that issue 2 was the X-axis went in the middle of an acrylic job (finished engraving perfectly went into cut line mode and kind of went crazy cutting right through the project and not where it was suppose to. After a few days and multiple switching on and off it kind of corrected itself.
Issue 3 is the current issue where this time the Y-axis isn’t working. In my short limited laser experience I’m learning a lot I just wasn’t expecting such a new machine to have this many problems so early on.
I’m just unlucky I guess!
well I have had my answer from the videos I have sent them the following is what they said
“Based on the videos you provided, the Y-axis motor is defective.
We will order a new Y-axis motor from our manufacturer and then send it to you ASAP.
It will take 5 to 9 days to be delivered”
They have not asked me to perform any more test on anything. So I have replied to them just to confirm I swapped around the right things they asked me to do with the pictures of the only section I swapped.
I just want to break it down here what they asked me to do then what I did. In there initial email they said
"Regarding the issue you’re encountering, would you mind shooting a video to show the lighting of the Y-axis driver? Please do the following so we can diagnose the problem.
Ensure all the switches, including the rocker switch and key switch, are turned on.
Open the control box cover on the machine’s right side if the laser does not operate (see the attached picture).
Make a video showing the function of all the components, including the laser power supply, the motherboard, X/Y-axis drivers, and the 24V power supply."
So I did all the above and sent them the video to which I got the following back
"Upon checking the video, we found that the indicator lights are normal. May we know if you can interchange the drivers of the X-axis and Y-axis for another test? Kindly restart the machine and press the direction arrows on the panel to see how the machine works after the change of the drivers.
In order to confirm the problem, please shoot a video to show your test and test result for our reference."
So I swapped around only this section in the picture only and sent them the results video.
There conclusion is the Y-axis motor is defective. SO there sending a new one.
Hopefully I will get clarification to what I responded in my reply to them about there conclusion.
That motor it’s not easy to get at … maybe yours will be more easily accessed.
Between you and me, I’d swap the outputs of the motor drivers and see if the problem stayed or moved.
I’d hate to have you fight with a motor replacement and it turns out to be the motor driver…
It’s their machine and they should know them… but I always like to be sure…
I am conformable doing this, if you are not, maybe it isn’t the proper path… It’s very easy and only requires the single output cable of the drivers to be swapped. You already performed the same operation to determine the controller was OK.
yes I swapped every wire from X-axis to the Y-axis in that section and vice versa in that red rectangle box only. Did I do that wrong swapping every wire ?
Should I only have swapped one set of wires only between the 2 ?
Please forgive me as I haven’t got a clue
You stated you swapped the motor controller cables… did you do both the input and the output?
The idea is to follow the signal, output of the Ruida goes into the motor drivers. This is the first cable to check. If you swap them at the Ruida or the drivers, it doesn’t matter as long as it’s the output of the Ruida and the input of the motor drivers.
I’m suggestion swapping the output of the motor drivers with the input of the motors… It’s obviously easier to swap them at the drivers than at the motor.
I just want to make sure you are doing output of this to input of that for a good debug of the issue.
If you can read the placard on your motor drivers, it will show you the input/output sections… like the one I posted…
It’s sounding like you swapped both the connectors in both of the motor drivers…
You can swap the green or red outlines at either end, as long as you do only one end. On the motor driver you want to swap only the outputs (green).
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