Nope that’s fine. It basically swapped the drivers from X to Y all together. It proves the motor is bad. If you wanted to prove the control circuit you would swap the 4 wire connectors or the output to the motors. That would mean the y axis would control the x axis and vice versa. This option might move the x axix the incorrect direction so you would need to hit the ECS key to stop the homing. Make sure all the wires are returned to the original configuration when complete.
The motor shouldn’t be too hard. The couplers should slide onto the rods when both set screws are loose. Then the only thing left is the mount screws on the motor itself. Maybe some zip ties for the wiring to the first connector.
So these bits I have boxed out in yellow this is the only ones I should have swapped around then powered laser back up and tested it ? and change nothing else.
Is this correct ?
Great, that’s the where the output of the Ruida is wired to the input of the motor driver…
The other set of connectors will swap the motors …
None of these parts are ‘tough’ to change. The problem is you have to be a contortionist just to be able to get in there. There is limited room around these…
Might check out m2, it’s usually difficult to just get your hands in there to adjust the mirror. My model actually has an access door on the left side…
Motor drivers are easy to get at… I’ve tried getting to my Y motor, I hope I never have to change it.
We’re all sitting on the edge of our seats … keep us informed
I’m a person that likes pictures I useless with all this terminology driver, motor, stepper, control panel
I’m sorry I’m just not up on all this yet.
At the moment the wires are back where they began in the laser. So I ran the test in video one with the wires only squared in the yellow boxed swapped over.
Then I swapped them back to there original origins so I didn’t get lost as to what I have and haven’t done.
I really do appreciate everyone’s help and input especially there patients for sticking with me over the last week this is all a new world that I’m discovering and my sanity is wearing thin
You can fix that one by setting the manual Jog Distance. On my Ruida console, that’s under Menu → Manual Set. Enter a nonzero value in the Manual field, then select Write:
On my control panel, poking the middle button in the up/down/left/right cross switches between Continuous for long motions and Manual for precise alignment.
@jkwilborn she had already stated she swapped all wires on each driver module and the problem persisted with the Y axis bugging out. This already eliminated the motor driver as the problem and also prevented her from seeing odd motion with the cursor movement arrows.
As for adding Mirror #2 into the mix is that really something which was mentioned here or was that in another thread? Seems like it’s just adding more to an already new operator.
I’m afraid not @jkwilborn , she swapped all wires on each motor driver. We’d asked about just swapping the controller input wires but she was told my Omtech to swap all wires. When she said that she moved it in X and it worked fine and the problem was still with the Y axis. THAT wouldn’t make sense with a control-only wire swap. And she specifically spelled it out after Jeff asked:
The problem is likely with the motor or the motor wires from the driver or mechanical. Personally, I wasn’t a fan of the Y axis motor wobble in the video and to me it did not sound like smooth motion. There was a sound to go along with that wobbling motor.
I’ve had an email from the vendor today and there sending out the Y-axis motor for me to install.
They said “you can simply replace the motor by reconnection the electric wires. We hope this helps you”
I have replied and asked for clarification where this is on the laser as I want to ensure I’m touching what they tell me to touch. I did also ask them why after 6 weeks it failed so quickly. As I’d really like to know why!
This is the picture or what they sent for my reference of what part I will be getting.
I think you know it’s going to be a bit more than just “reconnecting the electrical wires” and THEY should have put the connector on the end of the wire. So not only will you be required to loosen the 2 couplers on each side of the Y axis motor and slide them out of the way, you will also have to remove the mounting screws holding the motor in place.
Those steps will probably require either a couple of hex wrenches or a hex wrench(grub screws in the couplers) and a phillips screwdriver(mounting screws).
The wiring will require another set of skills and tools since there is not a connector on the end of the wire of the new motor. So now this is going to require you to cut the connector off the original motor maybe 4-6" away from the connector, strip the wires about 1/4" and twist together the connector wire with the new motor wire matching the colors. Plus putting some form of cover over each of the bare twisted wires so they can’t make contact with each other or anything else. I would also form a loop at these connections and tightly ziptie the crossing wires so that any pulling of the wire will not pull on the twisted wire connections.
I still find it hard to believe the stepper motor is the problem since the machine is so new AND you saw a similar thing happen with the X axis motor just a few weeks prior. @jkwilborn had a good suggestion about checking the dip-switches on the Stepper Motor Driver Modules but knowing which setting is correct takes a bunch more research and I would just lookup the Driver Module owners manual to see what the current settings are and if over 1 Amp(1A) I would try lowering the setting step by step down to 1A while testing between setting changes.
I would also look very closely at that 24V power supply to make sure it is set for your input power voltage. If you are in the US then it should be set to 110VAC and if it is set for 220VAC then that’s your problem. If you know how to use a Digital Multi Meter(DMM) to read voltages you can test this by putting your meter on one of the 24V/Grd pairs at the power supply and start moving the laser around with your cursor keys on the front panel. If it drops below 24VDC the power supply input voltage is likely set wrong.
The other thing I would look at is why that Y motor is moving when you move the X axis rail forwards and backwards with your hand. The video did not show smooth motion and I could even hear it making a wobble sound. Something is bent or out of alignment to have that motor moving while mounted to that metal bracket.
Why I don’t think it is the motor? Those things are very simple and only have 2 bearings and no internal parts which can wear out. I’ve replaced the bearings on my K40 X axis stepper motor after 5 years of use instead of replacing the motor and they are very simple motors. Also, a better test of the Y axis mechanical system would be to disconnect the 4 wire plug on the Y axis Stepper Motor Driver Module and then manually move the X axis forwards and backwards. Because you did it before with the motor connected to the Driver Module the motor itself was trying to slow down the movement. With it disconnected you should feel it move alot easier.
Yeah I don’t think I have any hope at all at changing that myself, there’s no way its going to be that easy.
I’m just sorry I’m not good at all this test this section, swap that stuff as I still do not have a clue half the time what I am touching. Yet I appreciate you all giving your suggestion of what to check or test or look for unfortunately when I read the suggestions I haven’t got a clue where i’m suppose to be looking.
Maybe in a few years I will look back at this and laugh when I can name every part and it’s function.
There 4 components we’ve been discussing so maybe you can help yourself remembering what they are by drawing your own diagram( not using a picture but hand drawing it ) and labeling the parts?
In your picture above,
The Ruida Controller is on the left and it is what your Computer connects to and sends commands while using LightBurn. It in turn uses 3 wires for each axis(X and Y) going to the next component(s). See those wires/connector in the yellow boxs.
the Stepper Motor Driver Module(s) are in the middle of the picture and has a red box around them. There are 2 of these Driver Modules, one for each axis and these modules are what makes the Stepper Motors move. The wires/connectors to the Stepper Motors are the ones with 4 wires towards the bottom of each of the Driver Modules. Again, see them inside the red square in the picture.
The stepper Motors, they are attached to the X and Y axis. One motor on the end of the X axis rail moves the laser head left/right and the other motor is usually attached to the front or back of the frame and moves belts on the left and right side of the frame in order to move the X axis rail forwards and backwards.
is the 24V power supply which gives power to the Ruida Controller and to each of the Driver Modules. You can see the 2-wire connectors on the Driver Modules colored red and blue. Again, see them inside the red square in the picture.
Drawing your own picture and writing down the names of each component will help you understand and remember what the names are and how they work in the whole that is your laser cutter.
Yes, you unplugged the correct connector but I wanted to see you move the X axis rail forwards and backwards with your hand( not using the control panel ) and show a video of the Y axis motor while doing this. You can turn the power to the machine off when you do this and the purpose of this test is to let the Y axis motor turn freely while you move the rail forwards and backwards.
you might also show what happens when you try to move the X axis rail fowards/backwards when your hand is on the left side of the X axis rail and again with your hand on the right side of the X axis rail. It should be very smooth no matter where your hand is positioned on the X axis rail.
Although I have updated the initial video above, I can’t even get to the Y-axis motor that bit it’s tucked behind right at the back behind a large long metal bar from the inside. Then from the outside it is behind door T from the picture but it’s not directly there when you open the door it is right up on a bar higher up behind that door.
I can barely get my fingers in and I have small hands.
Did you update this video? If so, we’ll need to hear you mentioning what you are doing with your hands relative to where they are positioned on the X axis rail( ie left side, center, right side ) and preferable say it before you start moving so we can still hear the motion. https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/omtech-laser-axis-grinding/86513/53
I useless with all this terminology driver, motor, stepper, control panel
when I can name every part and it’s function.