Original creation using some existing ideas

Graphic Artist daughter done the graphic and lettering in Adobe Illustrator. Converted to .pdf.
Loaded into LightBurn. Three quarter inch thick Hickory with Salad Bowel finish.
Orion 60W, Ruida 6442B-C


It looks very clean and nice, what are your parameters for this?

Speed - 150
Power - 15
1 pass
Transparent plastic film
No smoke on wood very little sap marking
I may be missing something

Thanks, it’s interesting, may I ask what kind of transparent plastic film do you use? and for the sake of good order, always remember to state the measuring unit, otherwise people might think you are driving at 150 km / h. :wink:

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I’m curious as well about the film if you used plastic film for masking (instead of paper tape).

Sorry, I realized later I hadn’t said, “150mm/sec”

Screen Shot 2021-01-05 at 11.32.12 AM
Used this film years ago for a project we had to do on the CNC Router.
It has what I will call a “mild” adhesive on the back and leaves no residue on what ever you attach it to.
Takes a little practice to get it smooth. You can apply with your hand, a Printer’s Brayer is best.
Also: I had several suggestions for the lettering when it skipped around and didn’t engrave everywhere.
Most of my work will and does come from Adobe Illustrator. I convert it to either .jpg or .pdf. but it is still Vector. Lightburn sees the lettering as pieces of lines depending on how they were drawn/rendered.
My simple fix for that became: Select the lettering in LightBurn, Ungroup, Fill.
I am having a ball with this laser. Also have a 3000Mw diode laser.

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I need to clarify this a little. The vinyl I am using presently is from some I had. It is not paper, it is clear.
I have no idea who we obtained it from. The product I spoke of in previous post is new to me, haven’t used any of it as yet but will today.

It’s a shame it’s vinyl. Vinyl and PVC are pretty much the same and give off hydrochloric acid when burned. Even if you have a good extraction, the fumes “eat” all the metal it can come in contact with.

Well, what you say is somewhat true. What you didn’t say? Under the limited time I will be using this product my laser nor I have much to worry about

These fumes can be deadly. :dizzy_face: https://lasergods.com/can-i-cut-vinyl-pvc-in-a-laser/

Then you do not worry about the highly corrosive effect of the chlorine gas being generated and the effect will have on your machine’s components or your fume extractor.

You also do not worry about the toxicity of the gas generated by the combustion of vinyl.

Stick to paper transfer tape in the laser instead.

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Just wanted to say that I use simple clear packing tape, seems to work well for me. And it’s cheap.



This is just PAPER transfer tape. If that’s used, it is fine. :+1:

I am confused about who uses what or when or how much as stated in this thread. But to be clear for anyone reading, the facts:

  • Paper transfer tape (often used for transferring vinyl cut lettering) used with the laser = :white_check_mark:
  • Anything vinyl used in the laser = :skull_and_crossbones:
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Please, Do not interject your decision on what I am doing.

I know the problems concerning the vinyl and I use it very few times, mostly for testing.


Now I am more confused.

I do not understand at which point I made any decision on what it is you are doing that differs from information you provided. Moreover, where interjection occurred. My last post was to provide clarity to the public who may come upon this thread so there was no confusion.

Forget it. lol

Most of the tape suppliers also supply a clear version, I use R tape Conform (paper) & R tape Clear choice (plastic) for vinyl transfer making signs or sign writing vehicles. I’m not sure what the clear is made from but it’s most likely PVC as it reasonably flexible.


Let’s get this thread closed, it is going nowhere.

I contacted US Cutter Co. about their paper tape, following is their response.

So is everything else we laser cut. Organics by their nature are flammable.