It’s supper hard to achieve a diode laser burn quality with a CO2.
The images above were Created at a 2 watt output. A 100 Watt CO2 laser will not fire at that low of an output. Additionally the wavelength of a diode laser is different then that of a CO2.
I haven’t yet played with the flat white Norton method but I’ve seen that it can indeed be done with CO2.
I’ve e seen the outcome as well however nowhere near the level of detail a diode laser outputs.
I’ve had moderate success with tile when testing K40’s for PWM control. Good tube and PSU, tho. Not the normal bargain-basement ones.
So what the difference in outcome between using black v white primer/paint to coat the tile initially?
Is one better than the other in some respect.
Also the colours from using Sharpies seems very intense… My Sharpie usage has been less successful.
I have been unable to colour a black section of the engraving at all. How did you guys achieve this?
If you are using sharpies, you’ve burned through the vitreous layer to expose the ceramic underneath. That’s not ‘the norton method‘, which fuses the paint to the vitreous layer.
I don’t understand what you mean.
I thought the Norton method was up to the point where you have taken the white paint off the tile after engraving??
The Sharpie was just me trying to use another method on top.
What should have I have done instead?
Thanks Bulldog.
I have seen that vid and it is exactly my method to date.
I note that Bonjour, in his comment above, suggested that I was not using the Norton method as I had attempted to colour the engraving with a sharpie. I didnt understand this comment as I have followed the Norton method and AFTER this is completed I then colour the tile with a sharpie to produce the coloured effects.
It works to an extent but I cannot yet achieve a real ‘pop’ in my colours.
I have tried sharpies also…BUT to be used as coasters…the color will come off when alchol is slopped on them…lol
That is very good.
Good point about alcohol spillage. Could a tile be covered in some type of sealant???
probably…lot of extra work to cover with epoxy
beautiful, especially the giraffe motif I like. (could I have it?)
Looks similar to Scrimshaw, I like it a lot
I simply spray with outdoor poly (satin)
I like these oil based sharpies for coloring wood,glass, acrylic, tile, Leather, stone and metal hardware . The paint will not rub off and is waterproof. They are not opaque but in the right application they can’t be beat.
https://www.sharpie.com/all-markers/art/oil-based-paint/SHOilBasedPaintAquaFine
Sasquatch
Like hens teeth in the UK… Cannot seem to find them anywhere at a reasonable price.
Will keep an eye out though
Hey Robert,
Is this script better than just doing everything in Lightburn (which would be my preferred option, having come from Coreldraw & RDworks), and do you have to pay for it? I’d be happy to if its a good improvement.
