Problems with my Ruida controller after trying my new rotary

Pretty much the machine decides where 0, 0 is located. If your machine homes top right, then that’s the origin…

Go to the Machine settings and at least save your current configuration…

Did you follow some procedure to setup the rotary… I’m trying to trace your steps backwards and figure out what you changed…

:smile_cat:

ok I have saved the settings for now. My machine is about three years old and I’m wondering if I should just purchase and install the latest Ruida controller which would be 6445. I’ve never been able to get the rotary working correctly and I’ve spent so much time on it only seems to be getting worse the more I try to fix it.

What usually happens is you add another gremlin to the mix…


Have you set your rotary up for the U axes? I hope not… I don’t think the 6442 will support the rotary on that axes… but I’m not 100% sure… it doesn’t seem to work on my 6442.

Take it slow and lets diagnose this properly…

Make sense?

I doubt it just broke, there is probably a configuration issue… I hate spending money if I don’t have too…

:smile_cat:

Remember that you must then configure that controller to match your machine, because it doesn’t come loaded with any particular configuration.

If you’re willing to go through that with a new controller, you may as well do it with the controller already in your laser and save a couple hundred bucks.

I’d start by concentrating on one axis at a time: get the X axis homing correctly, get the step length set correctly, set the travel distance, then repeat with the Y axis.

Post some screenshots of the current Device Settings (including the Vendor Settings) and maybe we can provide some pointers.

Jack:
I am running version 1.2.04 of Lightburn I had chosen the “Y” axis for the rotary operation, there was no option showing for the “U” as you mentioned, I also chose the chuck option had entered 1200 steps per rotation then later I tried again thinking I had the steps incorrect so I chose 360 steps (this is what is entered now even though the rotary is disabled and not connected. I hate the thought of purchasing the updated controller since I dont have the funds anyway. I appreciate your help so much
Ednisley:
I dont have a manual to tell me how to do what you are suggesting. I see where I can reload the data which I saved but I have not changed any data or parameters to send back to the machine for reconfiguration. I have never heard of correctly setting the step length or setting the “X” axis homing correctly other than selecting the top left as home. I am willing to try anything and I appreciate your help

The configuration information is modifiable via the machine settings…

Please confirm or correct…

  1. where is your machines home location?
    a. this is where the head would normally home.
  2. does both X & Y axes move toward this location?
  3. ensure that home switch is operational

Check out this link for steps/rotation and assure that the rotary is setup correctly…

:smile_cat:

One of the great things about living in the future is having All The Manuals available somewhere on the InterTubes:

https://www.ruidacontroller.com/rdc6445s/

The downside of living in the future is being awash in chaff. :grin:

LightBurn shows the controller’s settings through the Edit → Machine Settings. Down at the bottom of that list is the Vendor Settings entry unfolding to reveal all the fundamental configuration settings required to match the controller to the laser hardware:

Your controller is different than mine, but the entries will be similar.

Start with the X axis:

  • Set Enable Homing to False

Do the same thing for the Y Z U axes.

Click the Write button to send the new values to the controller.

Disabling homing will (uh, should) stop all the thrashing around when you turn the machine on, which will make life easier on everybody.

With the machine off, drag the gantry forward to the middle of the platform and move the laser head to the middle. In that position, you should be able to see the X and Y limit switches:

Turn the machine on, then lay a steel blade (knife, ruler, whatever) on the target atop the X home switch and verify that the transparent base lights up. The base in that picture is not lighted, because I ran out of hands, but it glows bright red when the switch is triggered.

Do the same thing for the Y axis switch.

Report back and we can proceed.

1 Like

ednisley
I had a busy day at work then had to clean up after a big snowfall, havent had a chance to read any responses since last evening, I will take the time in the morning and go back through your suggestions along with read the manual sent.
I look forward to reading the machine data that is stored and should have no problem following you directions. too tired to continue this evening
Tom

Now to the problem: Whenever I turn on the laser the “X” servo motor winds up the belt to the far left and vibrates voilently as the motor cannot drive the “X” axis because it has ended up at the limits end.

After you turned off your rotary setting in Lightburn, did you reboot the laser? The only time I had the jarring noise was due to the rotary being de-selected in Lightburn but not updating settings to the machine. I had that same discussion in another thread earlier and shutting the machine off (or doing a hard reset) after turning off the rotary on Lightburn seems to have done the trick for size discrepancies and for me, the end of travel vibration.

Sometimes, you just know what will happen next … :crazy_face:

Assuming the machine no longer homes at power-on with homing disabled (which is not necessarily a valid assumption, which is why I want to verify that), do the next steps with the power off.

The controller must know how far the laser moves for each stepper motor pulse, which you find out by measuring a few things and applying math. :grin:

Measure the belt tooth pitch, ideally with a metric ruler:

  • Mark a tooth on the belt
  • Starting from zero at the marked tooth, count 30 teeth
  • Mark that tooth!
  • Measure the distance between the centers of those teeth
  • Convert to millimeters if you didn’t use a metric ruler
  • Divide by 30 to get the belt pitch in millimeters

On mine, 30 teeth span 90 mm, so the tooth pitch is 90 / 30 = 3 mm.

Count the number of teeth around the motor pulley, which is easier if you mark a tooth and move the belt slowly by hand.

On mine, the pulley has 20 teeth.

So one turn of the motor will move the head 20 teeth × 3 mm/tooth = 60 mm

It’s almost certain the X and Y axes have identical belts and motor pulleys, but give that assumption a quick check.

Next, we must find out how many steps the controller sends to make the motor turn one revolution. But, first, report back so we all know what’s going on.

I hate to have him do a lot of unnecessary work. The machine was working before and when he used the rotary. It had problems when he removed the rotary.

The chances of these settings being wrong are low… There is something we are missing to put a solution together…

I wouldn’t want to change anything unless I had good reason… When you put a rotary into a working machine, use it then remove it and it doesn’t work… that smells of some thing in the configuration to me…

:smile_cat:

My assumption is that, by now, anything is possible.

Starting from the absolute fundamentals will rule those things out, plus ensure we’re not missing anything that should be obvious.

Bear with me on this …

I am attaching the 14 screenshots mentioned in my previous post. I can only attach 5 at a time so please see follow-up posts.






posts.





ednisley
I measured 30 teeth on the belt which is a length of 60 MM,
, one turn of the motor moves the head 40 MM or 20 teeth
Tom

Tah-dah!

The screenshots show the controller expects to take 6.13 µm per step for both axes, so the steppers should be set for (40 mm/rev) / (6.13 um/step) = 6525 step/rev.

To verify that, find the stepper drivers inside the electronics bay, which should look like this:

The side of the driver case has a table with steps per revolution and the corresponding switch settings:

Look down the first column to find 6525, then note the switch positions. My drivers do not have that number, but yours should; if not, there’s a problem.

The switches are in a block along the edge:

In this case, switches SW5 through SW8 are OFF OFF ON OFF, which corresponds to the table entry giving 5000 steps/rev.

Stand on your head, peer inside, and see what you come up with.

Protip: Taking pictures as you go definitely helps!

I must piece your screenshots together and pore over them, which will take some time. Today was my long-delayed eye exam: my pupils are vast dark pools and the screeen is really bright.

1 Like

How could the hardware change?

:smiley_cat:

There has been an unknown amount of thrashing around, so it’s worthwhile to start debugging from the basics.

For example, I wonder about the (computed) 6525 step/rev setting, because casual rummaging shows many drivers with 6400 step/rev, which would give a nice exact 6.25 µm/step, rather than 6.130268 µm/step. I’d like to make sure the driver really does that and what its other choices might be.

Bonus: introducing somebody to how this stuff works is never a Bad Idea™.

Bear with me on this …

I dont mind checking all the settings mainly because I bought it used and since I never did the initial setup, Lord knows what the settings are. This is also a learning curve for me and I’m anxious to learn the steps to fix it.
Right now the carriage is placed in the middle of the work area and homing is disabled, and when main switch turned on just sits there without moving, good so far, Yesterday I had wrote and sent the maximum travel for “X” and Y" of 690MM and I believe 480MM and now when using the controllers arrow keys the carriage travels the full length as it should.
I opened lightburn , tried to frame a small rectangle near the middle of the bed and it brought the carriage to top left limit and the “X” motor kept trying to do as previous jumping around like crazy.
I will go out to my shop now and check the switch settings.