Rotary axis configuration

I think it makes you confirm something is not configured properly.

If it’s reading it from the controller, that’s what is in the controller. Which kind of leaves us with no question here…?

What’s it actually doing or not doing?


I have done some more research on other forums and it seems this is a long standing problem with some versions of the controller firmware.
The data is being written to the controller OK but the controller is not changing to the rotary function despite being told to do so. The controller Function menu shows that the rotary axis is enabled. Ruida website doesn’t list any firmware uploads or upgrades for my controller (RDC6445S) but I am not giving up.
I am hoping someone out there in CNC land has had similar experience and may know of a fix.

What happens on the U axis when you enable the rotary?

Don’t know. I don’t have the U axis connected, From what I understand, the rotary axis will only work on the Y axis. Can it be made to work with the U axis?

I’ve read that some of the 6445’s run on the Y and some run on the U depending on the firmware.

There appear to be a number of people using the U axes for a rotary. If you search the forum there are a number of threads on it.

I have just gotten the driver from Amazon.


What driver did you order? I’m looking at the DM542S.

Here’s the discussion I bookmarked for future use.

This one from Amazon

This is the ‘supplied’ driver

It was low cost, but I haven’t installed it yet. Have some 18 gauge wire showing up in a few days.

This is mine driven off Y.

It’s a PiBurn, what type do you have?


Its from Mansfield customs. I have a 6445 from Lightobject. They say I can run it on the Y but I haven’t installed it yet. I’m thinking it will be the U like all the rest.

Thanks. I will connect up the U axis. Fingers crossed

Set up the U axis and, lo and behold, it works! Now I can toggle the rotary on and off from within Lightburn. A big thank you to everyone.
Now I just have to fix the slipping problem with the rotary fixture.

Great that it was an easy task. Have the parts, just haven’t gotten around to it yet. Still working on a jig for alignment.

When you fix the slipping problem, let us all know :slight_smile:

I like to engrave detail, so I had to drop all the acceleration values. I think mine are down about 20mm/s on the Y axes. And some porcelain cups just refuse to stick. Too much mass to change direction so quickly.


Will do. Stay tuned

Fixed the slipping problem for the most part but different glass ware behaves differently because of their shape. Stemless wine glasses seem to be the most troublesome.
I use a strip of tape (either masking or sellotape) around the top rim of the glass for grip on the drive wheels and then weigh it down with a glass ball. Works with most glasses. Instead of tape you can use a rubber band but haven’t found one the right size.
I spray the glass with spray-on chalk before etching. Works a treat and washes off very easily with water.
Have found that it is most important that the longitudinal axis of the rotary attachment is aligned. If the two sets of wheels are off even slightly the glass will act like a screw.
Still playing with power and speed settings. If anyone wants any more detail let me know.

interesting creation. Rather different with an extra mirror.

How difficult was the alignment of the frame?

Looks good, like to see the electronics end and tube, hint hint…


I have the same rotary attachment, and had issues with alignment as well. I made a larger drive wheel for it and it helped a lot. Thicc Wheels for Vevor Rotary Attachment by deez2009 - Thingiverse

Also, check the idler wheel to drive wheel alignment, mine was off by a few mm, which caused issues too.

Hi Dennis. My main problem was with the idler wheel to drive wheel alignment too. Thanks for the link but I can’t open it. I assume you made the wheels wider. That makes sense.

Hi Jack. Added some more pics. Alignment wasn’t a problem at all. Made sure the machine frame was square and true when I built it which made it easier to get everything level. The first two mirrors are fixed so once they are set the rest is easy. The tube outlet is about 20mm below the level of the moving mirrors but his doesn’t seem to make any difference.

I love the pictures. It’s great to see peoples creations, especially when they vary from most of the rest. Any modifications, I enjoy looking at.

With my PiBurn, it’s pretty stable. The issue is when I do any kind of vector graphics, I can’t get it to move slow enough that the cup doesn’t lose traction.

I can’t lase much below what I’m doing now and slowing it down seems to ‘burn’ it too much. Most of my best stuff has been with scan or fill. This cup has the town logo on it from this shot of the city truck.

Had to clean it up a bit, but it turned out OK for one of the first dozen I’ve done.


Getting better with it. Going to try it with tile…


That’s impressive. Only tried glass so far but metal and others will come later

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