RUIDA et rotary (infamous "frame slope")

LightBurn Software Questions
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Bonjour
j’ai galéré comme pas possible pour faire fonctionner mon rotary avec mon laser VEVOR CO2 80W. Donc comme j’ai beaucoup lu sur ce forum à propos du frame slope, je pense que juste donner ma solution pourra peut etre aider quelqu’un.

  1. Dans le RUIDA selectionner menu>user setting> rotary. Là il faut mettre YES et entrer une valeur (pour le mien c’est 7300, mais on y reviendra). Ne pas oublier les enter pour valider les opérations.
  2. dansn lightburn lancer l’utilitaire de configuration de l’unité rotative (icone un peu ronde en haut à droite de l’écran. Là il faut rentrer le même increment que sur le ruida (normalement ce devrait ête le même quand on ouvre l’utilitaire). On entre le diametre du rouleau ou des roues d’entrainement (pas celui de la pièce). Pour les reste ce n’est pas necessaire, sinon que si vous voulez un graphique qui fasse exactement 360° il est facile de renter le diametre de la pièce pour en d’obtenir le perimètre, donc la dimension du graphique dans lightburn. Pour moi le bouton test ne fonctionne pas, il faut faire trois tours à ma pièce, donc on oublie.
  3. on diminue la vitesse de déplacement du laser (panneau “déplacer” à droite) de 100 vers 50mm/s. si vous le laissez à 100 votre pièce va voler au démarage.
  4. on dessinne un carré de la dimension du périmètre de l’objet, puis avec l’outil de déplacement du laser on place la tête laser au coin bas du carré, puis on la déplace au coin haut. si les valeurs d’incrément que l’on a rentré sont bonnes alors la pièce tourne d’un tour complet et exact. Sinon se lancer dans une série de try and error en modifiant la valeur incrément dans le réglage du rotary.
  5. Maintenant, il faut lancer la gravure et ruida vous dit “frame slop” et ne veut pas grgaver. Cela peut venir de beaucoup de choses, principalement si vottre gravure dépasse les limites du cadre (facile a vérifier en lançant u apperçu avec la visualisation des déplacements transversaux). SI ce n’est pas cela il faut impérativement avoir sélectionné “coordonnées absolues” à droite dans le panneau laser. Je ne sais pas pourquoi mais les autres sélections donne un “frame slope”.
  6. Voilà il ne reste plus qu’à graver.
    ATTENTION
  7. ne pas croire qu’il suffit de mettre le bouton rotary sur on sur le laser pour que cela marche, il faut bien entrer YES dans le ruida.
  8. Avec un rotary la précision n’est pas la même, ne jamais revenir en arrière ou utiliser ligne + remplissage. IL y aura un décalage et ruinera tout.

Hello

I struggled like no other to get my rotary to work with my VEVOR CO2 80W laser. So since I’ve read a lot on this forum about the frame slope, I think that just giving my solution might help someone.

  1. I struggled like no other to get my rotary to work with my VEVOR CO2 80W laser. So since I’ve read a lot on this forum about the frame slope, I think that just giving my solution might help someone. In the RUIDA select menu>user setting> rotary. There you have to put YES and enter a value (for mine it’s 7300, but we’ll come back to that). Don’t forget the entries to validate the operations.
  2. In Lightburn launch the rotary unit configuration utility (icon a little round at the top right of the screen. Here you have to enter the same increment as on the ruida (normally it should be the same when you open the utility). Enter the diameter of the roller or drive wheels (not the diameter of the workpiece). For the rest it’s not necessary, except that if you want a graph that is exactly 360° it’s easy to enter the diameter of the room to get the perimeter, so the dimension of the graph in lightburn. For me the test button doesn’t work, you have to make three turns to my part, so you forget about it.
  3. We decrease the speed of movement of the laser (the “move” panel on the right) from 100 to 50mm/s. If you leave it at 100 your part will fly when starting.
  4. We draw a square the size of the perimeter of the object, then with the laser move tool we place the laser head at the bottom corner of the square, then we move it to the top corner. If the increment values that have been entered are correct, then the part rotates with a complete and exact turn. Otherwise, start a series of try and error by modifying the increment value in the rotary setting.
  5. Now you have to run the burn and ruida tells you “frame slop” and doesn’t want to grgaver. This can come from many things, especially if your engraving goes beyond the limits of the frame (easy to check by launching a preview with the visualization of transverse displacements). If this is not the case, it is imperative to have selected “absolute coordinates” on the right in the laser panel. I don’t know why but the other selections give a “frame slope”.
  6. That’s it, all that remains is to engrave.
  7. Don’t think that you just have to put the rotary button on ON on the laser for it to work, you have to enter YES in the ruida.
  8. With a rotary the accuracy is not the same, never go back or use line + fill. There will be a lag and ruin everything.
2

I translated his post with Google Translate, keep that in mind.

Setup for a Rotary you need to know

  1. type of rotary, wheel (roller) or chuck
  2. steps/rotation from the motor driver of the applied axes
  3. gear ratio between the motor and driven object.

I did a short post on this with a few photos.

The test button does work, or the machine isn’t configured correctly. These are digital, at least up to the motor.

When you get a slop error it’s usually because it’s being driven out of it’s work area, either by overscan when doing a fill or it knows you’re too close to the edges for the artwork.

It operates the same as your table, so if you’re too close to the edge, you will get some kind of error.

I’m going to assume you use the Y axes, ensure, once your rotary is attached and that the X and Y coordinates are somewhere within the work area also that the artwork won’t drive it out of the work area.

I don’t use absolute coordinates, I put my head where it’s on the cup/mug and press origin, from then on I have start from set to user origin.

I commonly have job origin selected on the center left as that’s where the mugs manufacturer logo is placed.

Maybe @misken can help here… I’m hoping he speaks French and can make sense out of the translation. :folded_hands:

:smiley_cat:

3

Thank you for your useful informations. My approach is very pragmatic and worked for me. The rotary settings and how they worked are still a blurr thing… e.g. the test button is just moving a little the laser head on the x axis??? and i maintain that if i select the strat from option I got the frame slope issue, of course one of my settings should be wrong somewhere, but where?