Using latest LB software, burning cuts in 3mm basswood. Found errors I made so I fixed them. Ok, but it appears the fixes did not take or only some of the changes did not take and others did. Yes, I was careful to save before ready to cut again. Is there some simple secret to this? The only other possibility is to close out the software, reload software and file then try again. It’s a GRBL diode laser, 24watt, not that it matters.
Did you read Lightburn docs?
You’re giving US little information, but perhaps docs has un answer to your questions. 
Simple shapes, for example small rectangles that I got the size wrong. So I fixed them, along with other things that I messed up. Anyway, went to re-cut and only “some” of the fixes actually changed to their new sizes. Others that I had also changed or fixed, did not and remained as they were. So I’m wondering how or when exactly the GCode gets created, altered and processed prior to touching the Start button?
Could you post your file or take pictures?
Also Lightburn version?
However, remember that if you inadvertently change anything in your project, even if you revert later, an asterisk *
will appear in the top left-hand corner after your file name to indicate that changes have been made.
We’d need some more information, such as what was changed, did it reflect in the preview?
Saving is not required as Lightburn does not read the source off the disk to generate the code.
I just now finished re-doing/checking everything. Saved as a new file name then shut down. Due to my work schedule, I have to hit the sack in just a few so will attempt this in sections tomorrow so that I don’t waste another board. This is like a puzzle but not in that it’s a set of gears, mounting plate. Holes for pins, standoffs and side supports for those standoffs plus caps the design is to hopefully attach a small dc motor too which will turn the gears which in-turn, will turn a special gear that will interface to four marble run puzzles. The manufacturer or the runs does not make a device for this purpose. It’s not something I plan on selling, rather it’s just for me.
We’ll be waiting to help.
In the meantime, if you want, you can draw a square with a 4cm side and engrave it, then change the same square to a 10cm side and engrave it. Measure and check that the measurements match.
Sorry for the delay. There’s still problems. I copied out a portion of the shapes and pasted to a new file therefore allowing me to use the area in a piece of now scrap. I’ll hopefully get the images into this message. Even though the in-screen display appears correct, the resulting cuts are not. Please note the gear shape. Also the long piece(standoff for the gear), also in its left a cap piece for two standoffs, expansion cuts and etc, almost none match what’s on the screen. I’m having to go out of town for several days but will be able to review messages for whatever I’m doing wrong. Thanks again.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ukgst8pr1ayj53c912f8u/Photo-Apr-01-2024-3-13-30-PM.jpg?rlkey=effciztaztywxbxkcnadtjbze&dl=0
I took your advice today about drawing specific sized squares then cutting them. 10, 20, 30mm. What I got was vertically they were semi close but horizontally they were off by 0.5-0.8mm. Vertically off by .2mm-.4mm. When I’m dealing with small parts, this is significant. So a square is truly not a square in this case. I suspect this is the cause of my troubles. Yes, sent a contact message to the manufacturer.
From your pictures, first the laser needs belt adjustments on both the X and Y(very bad) axes. The belts of that laser are enclosed.
@cggorman has a laser with enclosed belts and maybe he can guide you through the adjusts.
Then you should do a Ramp Test to determine the best focal distance and do a Kerf Offset test to determine how much the laser beam of your machine takes out of the material when cutting.
For engraving you need to do a Scan Offset test.
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The manufacturer claimed it was actually within spec but I refused that back to them stating it was not. Per their request, I burned three different sized squares which did not measure when they should have on the resulting burn. They then asked for circles, which I just burned several, carefully detailing the source sizes and resulting burns. lol, one circle was way out to lunch. There is indeed a problem with the mechanical. Now waiting again for their reply. At least they are responding so that’s a plus. Its a Wizmaker L1 24W. Yep, sent pictures too
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Ok, so I think I found the problem and its of my own causing. DUH on me. During its assembly, I neglected to tighten two small shaft screws therefore it was doing its own thing instead of what I expected. My very first test cut came out perfect but to give myself a chance to take back, I’ll add “so far” anyway.
Great news.
I thought that laser was bought already mounted.
However don`t forget to do the other tests to get your machine working 100%.
So after my screw-up and duh attack, I find that this laser cutter/engraver is working by far better than I ever anticipated. I’m pleased to report I’m seeing accuracy cuts of +/- .0001 inches…possibly even closer than that. This machine is a Wizmaker WM-LE001 24W. I had also purchased the rotary assembly for it as well as the air filtration system and air pressure pump for the laser head. Also purchased the collapsible enclosure for it although using it does prevent quick access to the emergency cuttoff switch. I have not yet purchased a camera for this machine as I’ve been using it inside which implies the enclosure would have to come off to have a camera. lol, gotta clean up my garage first!
Now having stated that I’m very pleased with it, I am not an expert like so many of you are in here. My first project has been a motorized gear(s) base for connecting several “UGears” marble runs together which they were designed for that capability. Unfortunately, only two will run from one as opposed to all four from one as they claimed. Simply put, too much resistance from the various moving and waxed gear parts. So a motorized base is needed. No, UGears does not make a motorized base for these marble runs. No, this base assembly is only for myself as I have no intention of marketing it for their products. It is however a great learning starting point. Next on the agenda is the motor to gear interface to the assembly I just created. Have to buy the motor first.
I will state that companies like UGears, WoodTrick and ROKR, they have some fantastic people working for them and I can only imagine their equipment, software and personal knowledge.
Thank you all for helping me and I look forward to the next round of questions that I will run into.
David
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