I obviously bungled that explanation…
High power is only good for cutting… if you wish to cut through thick pieces of material, I’d suggest a higher power laser. Most of my thing is engraving. I have a 40W, it cuts well up to 6mm if I need too.
A 20W is going to cut like a 20W. Slowing it down isn’t going to make it cut like a 40W, so I don’t think I follow your reasoning here.
The Ruida control signals set for RF (non pre-ignition) mode is the same as an led.
I assume you know what a pwm control signal is…
With an led/rf machine, it turns on when the pwm state is high and off when low. It’s either on or off, there is no 1/2 state. This means the device output power is 100% or 0%.
If you have ever looked at a voltmeter at the pwm (ttl) signal, it will read 2.5V at 50% pwm. We know the it’s at 0V or 5V state only… the meter is giving you rms (root mean square) voltage.
The same thing occurs with an led/rf machine.
When a glass tube lases, it draws a much current as the supply will produce. The pwm is used to control that current limit but applying it to the lps IN terminal. The pwm, on a dsp it two signal lines. Pwm and L (laser enable).
Compare both machines operation when set for 50% pwm
The led/rf will lase at 100% power for 50% of the time.
The glass tube will lase at 50% power for 100% of the time.
Since the game with lasers is what happens when the beam strikes the material, I purchased a glass tube laser.
You would think…
A Ruida comes from a dictatorship/communist country. They don’t tell the western people anything about anything, let alone technology… So it’s all reverse engineered.
Dsp types, in a nutshell, many use the extra axes for specific purposes. Such as, the other axes may only need to move between layers. So it’s not directly available.
With the DCS32, it’s open source and schematics are easily available.
If you use one of these and wire it up with a manual pot, you have lost the advantage of it being a glass tube. It is run like an led, it’s on 100% at full power or it’s off.
I did find this but don’t know if it’s applicable, they claim it works…
You could also just run L through the front panel laser on switch, letting the pwm still control current and on/off.
The simple facts are that the Arduino based controller runs at 16mHz. most of it’s instructions are a byte. But if you make it only 8mHz that’s still 8 million instructions a second. The mks32 board runs at ~230mHz.
Simple fact is these are pretty much sitting there waiting for the mechanical operations to finish… the mechanics take for ever to occur compared to the controllers speed.
You will also be waiting for the mechanical to complete…
Nothing will increase the speed of the job with a laser… it’s all laser or tool dependent.
About the only way to speed up any kind of laser is to use a gavo head.
Make sense?
