Simple cheap test - stainless = YES white tile=NO

No molly, no mustard.
Trying new cheap ways.

“The 2024 method” trick is cheap carbon paper fixed with tape (yellow carbon paper in this test) leaves a wax-like residue so only easy clean surfaces for now.

Have to try fixing the carbon paper with a thin slurry of water and glue on round objects in the chuck. Have to try other colors next week and tatoo transfer paper. Trying to etch in color…with fast and cheap ways.

10w diode
(lost) settings = (I think) 1200mm/m 57.5% power 1 pass


Just going to leave us guessing? Tell us what you did :slight_smile:

as Colin said you gunna tell as or keep it to your self, don’t put it up and dangle stuff if you not gunna share…

… no cumbersome work, no inheritance …
Trying new cheap ways.

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Looks like found a hobby that pays for itself.

I think that spatula is stainless. I believe a diode laser can mark (anneal) the surface of stainless. Maybe.

Maybe…, maybe not…

In fact, I don’t think the 2 posts (mine included) are funny at all. They take our attention to something completely irrelevant and contribute nothing useful to this forum.
I would go so far as to call @parsec initial post clickbait, even though it doesn’t link to anything.
It takes time from those who otherwise want to learn something or try to help others.

That’s just my humble opinion.

“Don’t hit the old man anymore”. Sorry guys normally I hibernate the PC and as I added a new NVME the MOBO restarted the system and I lost the settings. As usual sharing knowledge is free and I like to share.
Info added to initial post.

You are forgiven :wink:

Sorry if I was a bit hard on you…

No problem.

Just a quick update 1200mm/m 57.5% 10watt diode

On Monday, when I have the other colors, I’ll do a material test.
I also have to test it on aluminum, glass and cups.

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I don’t see anything wrong with showing an accomplishment without details. You gave enough info in the beginning for people to step up and experiment with you.
I see it as a challenge to workout the final process. You should be thanked for your findings without having to give details.
I’m glad this happened. I won’t share anything here that I accomplished that I’m not willing to give details.

The section shows lot of finished creations without giving details on how there were made.
It was the initial post which was a bit of a teaser, implying a mysterious process not using the classical ways. If it is was just “look what I did”, I suppose it wouldn’t have triggered these reactions. :slightly_smiling_face:

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I would love to know what you are talking about. I have a diode laser as well and would love to be able to engrave on stainless. Hopefully you will continue this with some additional info. Thanks


I’m not the OP, but the thread is about transfering graphics onto stainless steel by “toner transfer” method using carbon copy paper.
The carbon particles more or less fuse into the oxide layer of the stainless steel.

Direct engraving of stainless steel is pretty much impossible with a visible spectrum laser.
Indirect transfer/fusing methods do work.
For engraving, You need IR laser.



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Aah, thanks, Samuli, for the additional technical information. So it is a process similar to titanium dioxide on ceramic: the laser triggers a chemical reaction leaving a persistent trace on the target. Very interesting.

Richard, the OP mentions other techniques used in this case: covering the steel with Moly Lube, a dry lubricant (I have seen warnings about that, might be harmful in some ways?), or with mustard (strange… a reaction with acetic acid, the mustard keep it on the target?).

Over two years when I joined this group, my second laser was an Ortur 15w. Its opt. output is 6.5 w. if I remember correctly. I did scare up a butter knife. Sprayed black paint on it, 100% power and 25mm/m. When completed, you could hold it up to the
light, reflect light back and forth across and you could see my name. Sort of!! So I say yes 10 w. can do it. Good work!!



You’re welcome.

Yes, the idea is the same.

It sure is.
The trick is to find the right materials that leave a permanent mark, preferably with as low power intensity as possible, that the sacrificial materials used are easy to apply and are safe to use.

For most folks, it also doesn’t hurt if the materials are budget friendly and are easy to source.
Unfortunately those two demands will often clash badly with the safe to use/lase demand, so care has to be taken when choosing the materials.