Super Outstanding work Chuck.
The acoustic guitar is my favourite but they are all great. The cases they’re in really enhance the finish…and very practical.
Well done for going all the way.
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Where did you get [or did you create] these laser templates? Also, did you make the acrylic enclosure or buy them? Any and all links would be fantastic - just as all these are!
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Very, very cool work. What machine do you use?
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Etsy 
has these\
Monport 130w turned put to,be a really good machine…
seeing as I had not ventured into the Laser world, but having 15yrs of 3D design that helped…
Agree Did not ever see this topic
About time you put them in the correct area.. lol
They look great as usual.
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Each Enclosure is custom to fit the design…
I use 5mm acrylic and try to match the depth of the design with 1mm over.
I decided that the acrylic cover would protect the many layers from crevis dust
that once it gets in would almost be impossible to clean again…
keeps the design nice and fresh looking…
really nice projects , well done 
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How are you bonding the acrylic together - it looks really clean
I only use Weld-On products..
Weld-On 3 is quick drying will start to bond and hold in place in 1-3 minutes
total cure at least 4 hrs, since it is fast acting it attacks the acrylic and start to melt it faster
so any splash droplets will need to be wiped up very fast, I use KimWipes they soak up very well and get into
small places..
Weld-On 4 is a little slow for more working time, and it does not blemish the surface as much as Weld-On 3 as it takes longer to attack and melt the acrylic surfaces so you have a little more time for oversplash cleanup…
Weld-On 16 is Gap Filling if you have two pieces with a kerf cut to deal with I tack them together with Weld-On 3, them go back and fill in with Weld-On 16.
Amazon has Weld-On… Temu/Etsy/Ebay all have the Applicators and Tips…
Also I bought some Brown Glass Bottles to put the Weld-On 3/4 in for easy use, it comes in Cans
so after opening you really cannot seal it good again and in a few weeks it will evaporate, so I use the
Lab Style Brown bottles with Black Tops… I like these bottles and use them for other chems that need to
kept from any outside light, that might affect the fluid you are using also…
I bought a bag of plastic bottle applicators and then use the Red tip needle applicator…
The great thing about Weld-On 3/4 is that it evaporates and does not ‘clog’
If you were to put a few drops on, say a piece of glass, it will evaporate and have no residue.
SO…the applicator tips NEVER clog, unless you touch them to any soft melted acrylic as you
apply it which is mostly never as your technique is to quick squeeze it into the crevis of the to parts anyway…
Weld-On 16 will clog some…but easily cleaned.
You get good at applying after about 3 or 4 times working with this stuff…
my biggest issue is going too slow and since the Weld-On3/4 is VERY liquid, it can splash some with the
metal tip dragging on the two parts are you apply it… BUT this is a like the first dance with your girlfriend,
you learn how to use your hands properly with practice…
hope this helps… 
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Really helpful - thank you. I’ve used hobby acrylic glue on coloured acrylic, with OK results, but useless on clear materials. Time to order some and experiment on some scraps I think.
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Disposable transfer pipettes and medicine cups come in handy for gooey adhesives like epoxy.
They’re too generous for low-viscosity solvent glues, though, as I discovered the hard way.
Some things you’re just not ever going to get clean again. 
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Meant to say…Really clever use of woods in the base for the lowrider one.
Hey Pete…
My son has a high end UV printer that I use for the wood grains
The detail is really good especially if you keep the real wood grain in the same direction of course..
So that fancy ‘inlay’ is just a really good replication but it works just fine and keeps the price
and the build effort low…
all the colors are the designs are done on the UV printer…
We just ordered another Larger UV printer that does A1 size so I am hoping to do some larger designs soon… 
Itching to do some 17 x 25ish sizes…
@Chuckphd, I’d like to learn what uses you put UV printers to. In my community woodshop I’d like to justify a Eufymake UV printer but am struggling with use cases that are more than “vibrant dye sublimation”. Sharing your experiences might help.
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Chuck
Are you telling me that the baseboard is one single piece and that the color and grain are printed on…and the colors on the bike layers are also printed.
Is printing cheaper than painting or just more efficient. I see some manufacturers make ink pens-modules that attach to the gantry of laser machines, Are they comparable to UV printing?
I must find out what are these UV printers.
It still takes talent to produce something simple and pleasing..Less is more! In contrast to the others eg turtle which are vibrant with great color choices and finish.
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holy crap, these are awesome!, what program did you use to make the layers?
wow where do I start… we make custom Metal tags for our Guitar Amps, with serial number plates…
my son also make Proxy MTG (magic the gathering) cards, best thing I can offer is to watch a few youtube
videos, so many out there…the best thing about the UV printers that we found is the detail and you can also
use a coat of varnish to make them print last longer…
Also things like uneven surface…this is a big deal, the most common example is a golf ball, we have not done this, but when doing some wood patterns and the offset due to the wood having some bends could be 2-4 mm
and the printing works very well for this…
and as you mentioned, the ‘detail’ is fantastic… and the colors…
Now it does take some playing with the setting and actually getting to understand your printer/software,
but once you do it is pretty much load and print…
Now…the biggie…you HAVE to at least print 1 or 2 pages every day to keep the heads clean…
Especially with the white ink, it tends to clog for some reason…viscous properties I suspect…
but most better printers have a ‘clean’ function that parks the head and actually sucks the ink out of the head
and wipes it clean… You may have to do this a couple time but it work well…
And be prepared to do maintenance, watch a few of ‘Jays to do list’ UV printer videos..
he goes thru a bunch of UV issues…
and the heads will wear out, we have not done this yet but I have tore down the head and all the cabling
on our Chinese brand printer to get it ‘sealed’ as the inks were getting on the print head connectors and causing issues… again… you will get to know your printer well ! same as with Lasers, or 3D printers…
they all fall in that ‘fix me’ category… hope this helps…
You can find design files on many sites, crafing sites etc…search laser layer designs…
Pete: I would love to take credit for the great designs, but I only choose the colors and wood sizes…
I do resize the designs to a nice size but truth is other than the custom acrylic case for dust protection to keep
them clean…these are from other design artists that, actually have talent
I just like making them… More to come…Much More…
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