Stroonzo
October 1, 2021, 1:41pm
2
fmchaur:
software RDworks 8.01.31
This is a LightBurn forum
Your laser is not connected in the recommended manner that Ruida suggest for a glass tube. That is, you can / should use PIN 5 (the analog signal) for the laser power.
If you have a glass tube laser, you should just use the analog output of a controller for the power curve.
Even if you had software or a controller that supported PPI (that’s fast switching of the laser on and off while cutting aka Pulses Per Inch), that is a hard On/Off 5v signaling to the PSU.
This frequency setting you are referring to is something different and is designed not for glass tubes. It is for RF excited lasers (RF lasers). You should have it set to 20kHz and leave it. Otherwise…
You have either a limit switch (CN3-4,5)(CN4-2,3,4,5) door switch (CN2-3) or water protection (CN5-4) halting your machine. Also, the way your controller is wired for CN5 (Laser 1) is not how Ruida suggests for a glass tube. I am not saying it won’t work using PWM (CN5-3) to the Laser PSU (because I do not know). I’m only referencing the Ruida documentation and the way my machine is wired. Ruida suggests, for a glass tube, using L-AN1 for laser power control.
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You also need to check that your laser PSU is calibrated to the manufacturer’s electrical current (mA) specifications:
I am beginning to think you need to tune your laser PSU (as if the PSU is set too low). To do this, you need to know the highest mA draw specification for the laser tube longevity. A guess for an 80w tube may be somewhere in the upper 26 - 28 mA range (but you need to check to be sure).
With this number in mind and with a mA meter on the machine (if you don’t already have an ammeter installled on the machine, they’re a pretty easy retro fit down stream of the laser tube) you can properly tune…
Sounds like the technician changed too many settings while experimenting with your machine. You will need to review all of the vendor settings and check these against your machine’s requirements.