Hey everyone, I have a Mira 7, and I’ve recently noticed this happened a few times this week… can anyone tell me why, and how to predict and prevent it? When I notice it happening, I quit, and redo it and it’s always perfectly fine the second time, with no changes.
With a Ruida controller, the most likely suspect is problems with the USB connection. If that’s what you’re using, then using Ethernet will immediately solve the problem.
Some discussions:
Plugging the Ruida controller into the local network, rather than directly into the PC, requires some care to prevent the router from assigning another device to the controllers static IP address. This discussion covers some of the problems and a big-hammer solution:
If you’re already using Ethernet, then other possibilities come into play, but try the easy solution first.
I’ll check that, but I’m curious, why would it be messy one time and then, without moving or changing anything, it be perfectly fine? This has only happened two times recently and I use this machine 4-8 times daily.
That’s the frustrating thing about USB jank: depending on a whole bunch of things over which nobody has any control, ranging from power line noise through junk USB cables to Windows internal timing, the transfer will either work perfectly or fall flat on its face. Worse, sometimes it looks perfect until you discover a few tiny internal details got clobbered.
As a bonus, if you’ve been plugging and unplugging the same USB cable for a few years, it’s probably worn out. With a bit of luck, it’ll be the cable failing, but sometimes the connectors on the PC or controller take a beating.
You can devote a great deal of time trying the usual fixes for USB problems:
For a Ruida controller, however, the universal advice is to stop hurting yourself and switch to Ethernet.
If you had a USB data analyzer, you might be able to capture some damaged packets, although clipping the analyzer on the cable would change things just enough to make the link fail either not at all or for a different reason. It would help if the controller didn’t use an encrypted undocumented binary command set and we had access to the Windows USB driver internals, but, hey, sometimes you play on hard mode.
So the best we can do is infer the most likely cause from the symptoms and take plausible steps to eliminate that cause. If the symptoms abate, we declare victory. If they don’t, rinse & repeat with the next most likely cause.
That can be a cause, so maybe it’ll work perfectly from here on out.
Protip: Test on cardboard until you’re certain it works perfectly.
Will come from sending the file via USB. Have found that on some larger files that you will need to either send the file to the controller and start the job from the controller.