Creality CV-30 Laser Falcon

Ran the “ioreg -p IOUSB” on command line (similar to lsusb on Linux). Connected, and disconnected I get back the same results (yes, I have a few external USB drives…):

tim@iMac27 ~ % ioreg -p IOUSB
+-o Root  <class IORegistryEntry, id 0x100000100, retain 24>
  +-o AppleUSBVHCIBCE Root Hub Simulation@80000000  <class AppleUSBRootHubDevic$
  | +-o FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)@80200000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x100$
  | +-o Apple T2 Controller@80100000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x10000054b, re$
  | +-o Headset@80400000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x100000550, registered, ma$
  | +-o Ambient Light Sensor@80300000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x100000557, r$
  +-o AppleUSBXHCI Root Hub Simulation@00000000  <class AppleUSBRootHubDevice, $
  | +-o USB3.0 Hub@00200000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x100000571, registered,$
  | +-o P9237 Desktop@00100000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x1000005a2, register$
  +-o AppleUSBXHCI Root Hub Simulation@14000000  <class AppleUSBRootHubDevice, $
    +-o USB2.0 Hub             @14100000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x100000591$
    +-o USB3.0 Hub             @14f00000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x1000005c0$
    +-o MacBook Air SuperDrive@14300000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x1000005d5,$
    +-o USB2.0 Hub             @14200000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x1000005ed$
    +-o USB3.0 Hub             @14e00000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x10000060f$
    +-o IOUSBHostDevice@14800000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x100000629, regist$
    +-o USB2.0 Hub@14700000  <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0x100000645, registered,$
tim@iMac27 ~ %

And it prints fine from the microSD using their supplied files. And I can manually change values (speed, etc.) in the gcode, and it does what it should.


Have you tried a different USB cable?
Is the usb cable from the laser cutter plugged directly into the computer (no splitter/converter/etc)?

Let me check that - this should be power/TX/RX - but I’ll have to buy one. Uses USB-C, and I’ve only got 2-3 of those, and they’re too short.

That could be it!
It could also be that you don’t yet have the right driver, or a few other things.

Here’s a page with some more info to help:
Connection Issues - LightBurn Software Documentation

Some success. It “connects” now, and a new serial port shows up (more Mac-like)


and console now shows:
Waiting for connection…

e[0;32mI (200672) usbtiny: Line state changed! dtr:0, rst:0e[0m

e[0;32mI (203857) usbtiny: Line state changed! dtr:1, rst:1e[0m




[MSG:Using machine:ESP32S2_V1]



b dir:3 head:0

tarx=-660.000000 tary=-660.000000 xmm=-52800 ymm=-52800 xstep=-52800 ystep=-52800

b dir:0 head:0

tarx=10.000000 tary=10.000000 xmm=800 ymm=800 xstep=800 ystep=800

cycle stop

b dir:3 head:0

tarx=-660.000000 tary=-660.000000 xmm=-52800 ymm=-52800 xstep=-52800 ystep=-52800

[MSG:X Axis limit switch on pin GPIO(40)]

[MSG:Y Axis limit switch on pin GPIO(42)]

stop st_go_idleok

But repeated attempts to “find” the device fail. I still don’t know yet if this is enough to “control” it, and start the laser, or it “connects”, but still won’t be able to do anything. I’ll have to poke around some more

Is there a reason why you’re trying to “Find” the device when it looks like you’ve already configured it? You can edit your device in Devices window if required.

Try moving the laser head in the Move window. If you haven’t already, enable the Fire button in Edit->Device Settings. Then in Move window try using Fire button to turn on laser. Do you see a light. Does light change intensity as you increase power?

If motion and laser work, then you should be in a position to start running jobs and testing.

well, it seems connected, but trying to use the “home”, “go to origin” doesn’t work. Nothing on the engraver, nothing in the console. “Busy” seems to be about as long as it would take for one to use the front button on the engraver, and then it goes “off” - but nothing happens.

Everytime I startup Lightburn, I have to select the USB port - it doesn’t seem to “remember” that - one reason I try to “find” it. There isn’t anything I’ve seen once manually configured that allows me to select the port so it will use it again. Or are you expecting “floating” USB ports from a Windows system?

So - seems connected - but nothing works from the “Laser” toolbox.

LB does remember the last used port. However, this can be impacted on order of operation because if the laser is not connected and on before LightBurn is open, the port is not made available by the OS.

So to avoid having to manually pick the port, have the laser connected and on before opening LightBurn. And close LightBurn while the laser is still connected. If you follow these steps you won’t have to manually select the port. If you ever start LightBurn without the laser connected then you’ll need to select port once the laser is connected.

Did you try the jogging controls in Move window or the Fire button?

Once connected, try entering these commands in Console. What is the reaction?

G0 X10 Y10

Separately, can you confirm if your laser has homing switches? Does the laser go through a homing process at power-on?

Jog buttons - nothing happens, nothing shows up in console.

G0 X10 Y10

Commands show up in console, nothing happens.

It has homing, that happens on power on/startup. No separate homing switch. So yes, it goes through a homing sequence at power on.

Can you provide the following:

  1. Screenshot of Edit->Device Settings
  2. Push Devices button in Laser window. Select your laser, then take a screenshot
  3. Full screenshot of LightBurn
  4. Copy paste Console output after first connection

Also, have you tried connecting to the laser using LaserGRBL? If so, what was the behavior?

Separately, this video about the CV-30 indicates that there’s a device configuration file. Did you use this when configuring the device?

Creality CV-30: CR Laser Falcon | Unboxing and Assembly - YouTube

Reply to question 1: Edit → Device settings:

Sorry for the delay, I was unable to post due right after making the above post on the website. Website refused to let me post another reply.

To answer - yes, I used the parm file that came with the unit. I had questions about the firmware, the website they point to is really - terrible. The manual is - not much of any manual. Basic instructions on assembly - nothing much on operation, or software configuration. They have software on the page for the CV-30, that I don’t think applies. A slicer, and a “printer” - which looks like a very basic Cura. Shows a 3D volumetric view - not applicable to a laser, really.

Anyway, got an answer about the firmware (they had two which appeared to be identical - but if they’re identical - why 2?) Applied the firmware, and immediately, LB connected, and will control the unit. On my 3rd small test burn now.

So the issue was the firmware needing to be updated. The firmware that came on the unit appeared to be from 4/21/22, the firmware I downloaded appears to be 4/27/22 - and that fixed the issue. If anyone runs into this - the extracted filename is CV-30_V3.0.20_20220427.bin. It will download with some garbage filename like, and if you try to extract it on a Mac - you get an error. It extracts - but some weird error.

Webpage to use for the download is - there is no link to this page that I’ve found from the main Creality site. The firmware file to download on that page is shown below:

1 Like
-rw-rw-r-- 1 jack jack   321714 May 28 10:27
-rw-rw-r-- 1 jack jack 67199745 May 28 10:27

One is 321kB, the other is 67mB.?


Well done getting it sorted out.

I had a generally positive impression of Creality before based on their 3D printers but their documentation and website organization are legitimately awful. I looked at the content of those firmware files and it’s also a garbled mess. Looks like a dump of one developer’s random working folder.

Based on the content of the larger file it looks like it’s not just a firmware file. It includes tools and content to do an entire reflash of the ESP32 including bootloader.

Smaller of the two is the firmware file - presumably English. The other file - might be a complete reflash, but has Chinese characters in the filename. Just use the smaller one. Unzip it and you’ll find the filename I mentioned. If you don’t - that’s the wrong file - but the size looks about right for the .zip

Should be CV-30_V3.0.20_20220427.bin with a 5/9/2022 date on it, and ~539KB

Yeah - I’ve got an Ender 3V2. Basically - things get to a certain price, and I’ll ‘strike’ on buying it. I’d gotten the Creality Ender 3V2 - thought I’d stick with the brand. I’ve tried to follow on the DIY route before, and it always seems you can’t find the exact right parts/versions/etc. and I don’t get the correct results.

The unit looks ok - fairly solid for what it is (I still need to get it REALLY squared up, and do more than paper shims to level it…) but the docs are virtually non-existant, and you hit the nail on the head with the website. Looks like someone ate alphabet soup and threw up on a disk platter, and that became the website. Pics look nice, but trying to find useful information is a joke.

And - 4 burns so far. Learning a lot from YT vids - more ideas than I ever really thought at the onset of buying it. Just testing one thing at a time, etc. and need to make notes and some 8x10 color glossies with Officer Obie… (from Alice’s Restaurant)

jkwilborn - I’ll assume you are new - I ain’t much newer, but have learned a couple things:

If you’re burning pics on wood (that’s what I’m starting with - after one of the sample files on the microSD card) - use Imagr to upload and process the file - use the “Norton - Wood” material, download it, stick it in LB.

I am trying to find just the right settings, but I believe they will be around 45mm/sec at 70% power. BE SURE TO ADD THE SHAPE MENU (Window->Shape), and then select the slider to turn ON “Passthrough”. It’s ready to burn - you don’t want it overprocessed by LB. I’ve changed nothing else at this point, looks decent on these bits of wood I got from Hobby Lobby.

I’m going to go out and get some borax, make a borax solution to stabilize the wood, and change the chemistry a bit at the top layer. Saw that - forgot that’s been used in woodworking for years to get a more even finish on these light woods (basswood, linwood, etc). Anyway - that borax solution seems to help get a better result.

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