I didn’t take it that way Wade. I accept all criticisms, especially on things I know nothing about! 
And Jan was right about this. It’s not permanent, but when I coated it, it is sealed in time now. Looks very nice in my kitchen on display, and we’ve gotten a lot of compliments from friends and family. I have actually done almost a dozen more since for friends that loved it.
My motto is: inspire, create, learn, teach
You can teach this old dog new tricks and I sincerely appreciate it!
Rich
Thanks Jan! I’m actually trying out the Norton method and a couple of others. Trying to learn how to do this more proficiently!
Rich
i know is an old post but, i’m not english mother tongue and i have not understood a couple of things:
There are actually a few different things going on in here. If you look up at my example I used: RUST-OLEUM PAINTER’S Touch 277991 General-Purpose Satin Spray Paint, Satin, Oasis Blue, 12 oz Aerosol Can
I first used acetone to clean the tiles. Next I gave a nice coat of the spray paint. I allowed it to dry for a few hours and then used my CO2 laser. After it was done I used acetone to clean the paint off. As noted… Doing it this way the design does not wash off or scrape off.
Hi JVL, can you share this test?
Sure, not a problem.
Just ignore the .030 note on the bottom.
That is where I was playing around with different Z heights.
Just focus your laser and run it.
TEST GRID 2-24-21_backup.lbrn (64.1 KB)
A question if i can… what kind of white paint you use? acrylic paint can be used? Let me tell you that i have not a Co2 laser but only a “poor” 7.5W diode laser.
Thank you
The paint that I use is Rustoleum white paint / primer 2X
Actually a Diode laser will do a better job than a Co2.
They will focus to a finer dot, (I think mine is .003)
I have the J-Tech 7 watt
Most anyone that produces “photographic” quality images will be done with a 2.5 watt diode laser.
Just look above at the work that Nicky Norton produced.
He is actually the person that developed that process. (and where I learned it)
You will be pleased with the work you produce with your 7 watt.
Hope this helps.
well, it seems i’m not able to… i’m not able to find the right compromise between power and speed, but i’m still testing
@Bulldog you are able to do such things with this?
Eleksmaker 2.5 watt GRBL 1.1e…Mana Se ver1 controller
Can you tell me speeds and power you used to do that?
sorry, i know i’m boring with all those questions but… can you give me the code of this paint? here in Italy rust-oleum is not available, neither in Amazon italy, so i have to search on ebay
maybe is 249843?
anyway… all shops i’ve found on the internet, no one sell rust-oleum in Italy, so i have to search something similar,
You’re not being boring at all.
Yes, that is the correct paint.
Maybe you could look for a similar product in your country.
I would imagine that there has to be something similar.
Any paint that you find should have titanium dioxide in it.
Its the Ti02 that reacts with the surface of the tiles to produce the pictures.
Start looking at Nicky’s FB page, (Norton’s den of lasers)
There is a lot to learn there with many very helpful people available to you.
Thank you for your patience, and yes i’ve understood that is the Ti02 that reacts with laser beam. I will try to find some spray paint with this.
Thank you a lot. 
Norton White Tile Method is unfortunately only available on Facebook
sure… and i don’t have an account…
The only reason I have an account was to join that particular group.
Otherwise, I have nothing to do with Facebook.
There is a lot to learn there.
ok i will create a FB account
You can learn all about the Norton method on YouTube.
how about Frankenstein in red or maybe green? What do you think? The real question is: can we get different colors to burn into tile? I have to try this, red rose, here I come.
You might be interested in the information found on this thread;