I guess you need
a 24V at 6A that can also can provide 5V at 2A…
Took ten or twenty minutes to find this one on Amazon, but it’s power output isn’t what we need. It provides plenty of 5V current, but is an amp shy with the 24V output… these are labeled above the GND terminals…
Sounds like I may have to get it from Monport? Unless they can find one here in the states.I have asked richfaraone who is in this forum if he could help with a source. Not sure if he’ll answer but praying.
You didn’t say if you would be interested in some extra money to come here and troubleshoot the machine. Do you know anybody in AZ who could help if you are unable?
I’d try and ask them if you need 6A at 24V… They probably have a boatload of these and they put the same basic supply in all of them… A lot lower cost than separate supplies for the various machines. If their biggest machine only used 6A, maybe the smaller ones can get along with less…?
The only real way to tell is add up all the things that use 24V for a total.
Make sure there isn’t inline fuse, line one of the 110V connections on the chassis.
This one from Amazon has a built in fuse… this one is pretty clear, but I’ve seen them inline and they are difficult to find.
Have to ask the spouse if she will drive me down there… 
If possible your tech guy could check the basic input power to the machine and power supplies. Ensure it’s actually getting power.
My machine has two of those. Are you saying I should change the fuses? I have a text into China about the power supply. I have 2 people I’m emailing to see if they know of any tech. I think ---- This laser is much easier to understand for any person with electronic knowledge than my old GCC (that had a mother board and a LOT of parts). I’ll be back with whatever China answers. Thank you again Jack
I have a 900x1200 dual head Chinese laser using the CW5200 cooler. The 5200 cools 2 tubes. When one of my water protecter switches went bad, I turned off water protection alarm and stop in the Ruida software. The CW coolers beep if there is not enough pressure. if the cooler is running you can squeeze the coolant tube to see if the beep alarm is working. I am still using the same tubes for 9 years…
I’d suggest you take a few minutes and connect the 5202 to the Ruida. It will stop the Ruida if there is a failure, allowing you to continue when corrected.
The way you have it wired, it’s guaranteed lost job. If you forget to turn on the chiller, you have no warning.
Wired to the controller it covers all the bases…
These are pretty smart machines… I might not be like you, I get focused on my work and don’t/can’t remember the simple stuff… much easier to wire it up like it was designed and have it watch itself instead of me watching both the machine and the job.
Marty
This is a different question. In your laser do you have a power supply (in a metallic cage with holes)? I’m trying to find this power supply which is difficult because it’s 6A and everything is 5A. Thank you
Hi Jack
China answered and they said it is that power supply but seem to be having trouble finding which gives me a great feeling UGH. They said it must be 6A. But no one has told me what would cause that to heat up (as well as the controller) and “pop” The water was installed, laser turned on, controller still said SYSTEM RESETTING" which went away after a minute and my last job appeared. But no lights in the cabinet and the laser was dead - no motors driving the belt and homing. As we kept turning off and on it seemed to have built up heat and popped. The only lights on in the cabinet was the controller #15 and the green light in the 6A PS. My laser PS is fine. I fear putting in a new PS and it will overheat and pop again unless we know what caused it and make sure that is corrected before installing.MAybe I should get 2 PSupplys?
Most of the time when a light bulb fails, you have no warning… so it might have just bit the dust.
Worst case, you can put two supplies in there… might be easier… I couldn’t find a replacement either… I’d continue to pressure them for a resolution…
It looks to me like there is only one thing plugged into the 5V output of that power supply?
I would just replace this with a readily available single-output unit like this (24V, 6.5A):
https://a.co/d/fYNyeW1
And handle the 5V separately:
https://a.co/d/7r6ulPP
Hi Debbie, I am not very good at electronics, but if if you think there is a water switch problem and the software will allow you to temporarily bypass the switch and that make it work, then that would be an easy and cheap way of troubleshooting the issue. In your original post you mentioned a water chiller error. I do have the directions to read the controller data, but the water protection switches are probably listed as on or off in the read. Someone else could tell you how to change the parameters and bypass that switch for testing purposes.
The ability to disable the water protection in the Ruida was advanced to her in post 10.
The issues now is it doesn’t even power up.
I had suggested she check the fuses, as they might be an issue. Some of these have fuses, some don’t… if there are no mains voltage, then will also be no indications… which seem to be what it’s doing now.
All of these are the same basic design, but each is a bit different on assembly and what is used.
I’m about 100 miles from her… and 10 or 15 degrees cooler 
The spouse advised she would drive me down there within a Monday through Thursday time frame…
I can’t read the placard, so I don’t know if this is the 5V… if so it’s probably some led somewhere
I suggested separate supplies also…
IMHO, I’d call bs on this… I suspect they are feeding you a lot of baloney about what is required… doubt people answering the questions really know.
I suspect your power supply failed… it happens and it is more likely than anything else. These supplies, even shorted, should not burn up…
I’m afraid at this point your only options are only to start at the beginning, ensure the supply is getting mains voltage. If no output replace it and continue.
Then see what did or didn’t work after you got power to it.
Hi Jack and others
China is sending a new power supply -problem- its going to take 7-10 business days. I am still searching to see if I can get anything in N. America. Arrow says they have one with 6a. But just sent photos to make sure it’s a match and waiting to hear.
Someone did come over today who has Universal lasers and was kind of lost on mine. China said to check the fuse in PS but the guy said it has specials screws and wasn’t sure if it’s meant to be opened. So how the heck do you check? But besides this I am not capable nor want to attempt to uninstall and install one of these. So Jack I may need you to come down and do that. I can watch tracking and see when it looks like it’s arriving. I will keep trying to see if I can find someone local in the meantime. I know it would be a trip for you but I truly am appreciative for the help on here and willing to come. I will give you my number so we can discuss more details.
Debbie
I wonder if your laser is running the stepper drivers and the Ruida controller off the same PSU? I see an awful lot of wires heading into it - it’s probably under rated at 6A.
Hi Jack
I think think the post with your number was taken down. Is that not allowed on here? Are emails? Because I can give you that. My emaill and tel. are out in the public on Etsy and my website
If the failed PSU was running the motors as well as the controller and miscellaneous other…then personally, instead of replacing with the same model, I would upgrade it to one that will deliver at least 150W to 200W (e.g. at least Mean Well LRS-150-24, or better LRS-200-24), and they should include built in overload and short circuit protection.
As a comparison, I have an 80W Nova 24 Thunder Laser, and even though the whole machine (including the chiller) would be hard pressed to exceed 5A it still uses a separate 36VDC 9.7A 350W for running the motors, and an LRS 75-24 75W 3.2A for Ruida and misc.
I think it’s better to have more load capacity up your sleeve and run the electronics cooler.
Hello all
My nightmare with this laser continues. China sent the power supply and installed it tonight. The machine came back on - PARTIALLY. I am back to the same issue again. But this time no WATER ERROR message. Water sensor is currently bypassed. The issue NOW is the laser turns on: controller, exhaust fan, and the laser (power supply box) with the key. That’s it!
No cabinet LED lights and no gantry moving. The controller says SYSTEM RESETTING for about a minute and then clears. Inside ---- power supply green light – no motor driver lights— controller only has one red light on (#15) and a blinking one next to it.
Fuses have been checked twice (in outlet plugs socket) - wall outlet checked. So half of it powers on and half doesn’t. Has anyone seen this before. A tech in CA says he thinks it may be the power switch. On this laser the on/off is the Emergency red button that twists to turn on. one wire out of that block (underneath) goes to the laser key – which works. The others go down - 2 into PS - 1 to laser power supply box and the 4th to the outlet. Does this make sense that is could be defective somewhere? Then he said the last thing is the controller.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. It feels like I’m stuck without a tech person here to diagnose it. It has been 3 weeks of being down and no further than the first week!!
Thank you everyone!!
Sounds like the power is not making it to the motor drivers, this can be checked with a multimeter. If there is a switch on the PSU for selecting input 220V or 110V AC, ensure that it is set correctly.
I’m up and running!!! Thanks to a wonderful engineer I met a makerspace. The problem definitely needed a electronic/technical person. It was no easy find and took diagnosing many wires and connections. It turned out the auto focus probe wire had to be cut (hate those things anyway). If I understood correctly - it was drawing power down. Anyway – I couldn’t be up and running if it wasn’t for this man. All the texting with China and phone tech support could have NEVER EVER FOUND THIS. Just proves God will lead you to the right people/sources!! Thank you again for all your thoughts and advise
I’m glad you have it working…
The autofocus failed, that’s odd. I don’t see how this could cause a power drop… these are wired to the Ruida input with no power to them…
Can’t argue with success… 
