I’ve spent some days constructing a new lamp. The prototype is done and gives me a fine indication of errors and shortcomings. It has its price to make lamps in 0.8mm, 3 layer birch aeroplane plywood, tensions and twists in the tree forces me to stronger dimensions of the sub -construction I otherwise want.
Otherwise, the light is fine and gives a nice atmosphere, I want to “test” the lamp a week or two and then make the changes needed.
(Sub -structure is 4 layers, 2mm birch aeroplan plywood)
Thanks Chris, light transparency is what I love about the thin materials. I will try to do another test with 1 mm plywood and turn up the light more. Right now there is only a 2Watt LED bulb in the lamp, so I hope I find a compromise with 1mm and 4Watt.
I do hope that LB users realize how important that seemingly unimportant detail really is when creating laser cut pieces like that amazing looking lamp of Yours.
It’d be nice if more people would mention the different softwares used in the creation process, especially if LB is the only one used.
I’m sure that the 1mm thick shades will make it look even more spectacular.
Was the intent to evoke a mid-century/Bauhaus style? I’m not super familiar with the European (as opposed to American) design aesthetic of that period/style but it does certainly remind me of some of the work I have seen from then.
I want to say it this way, I very much like “Art Nouveau” and a big part of the “Bauhaus” style.
The prototype is also a bit of a memory of PH (Poul Henningsen), a Danish designer/architect/artist. He has designed an incredible number of different things, including many lamps.
So the design is “seen before” But, the unique comes with the lines. PH has not made anything with straight lines. However, the PH3/2 lamp from 1925/26 fits well during the time period with the establishment of the Bauhaus School in Weimer 1919 and Poul Henningsen was deeply marked by this new movement. My lamp, which I am “constructing” is a mixture of both worlds, Art Nouveau - with its elegant playful curves and Bauhaus with its solid shapes and straight lines.
Thanks Daniel, I use that knipex to press the parts of the substructure together. I don’t normally use glue for my lamps and therefore use a very tight kerf setting.
Now prototyping has been completed, there are only a few mounting technical problems left. I am pleased with light visualization and glad that the jump from 0.8mm to 1mm has not destroyed the transparency of the tree. In the pictures 2 different LED bulbs are used, a top mirrored and normal, both with 2W, I have not got the 4 watts yet. I am a little surprised that the difference is not bigger.
“The art” to get the larger leaves not to bend and twist too much is to cut them all in the same direction. But I also have cheating a little, at the end of the leaves I have small “conect elements” that keep the correct distance and the direction.
The few little things that were missing turned into a redesign. There were some angles that didn’t fit me and not enough light came to the middle circle either. But now it is “manufacturing ready”, the file is stored and challenge is only to find wood that does not arch too much. It is a bit of a challenge when there are parts involved with physically larger measuring to cut wood in the right directions to avoid tension and waves.
Thanks Marion, unfortunately the lamp is still not ready. (not the model in 1mm birch, it’s Complete)
I will try to make it in opal/white acrylic, but the delivery time of molded acrylic is currently extremely long, Easter vacation, saw is broken …
I make the frame in clear acrylic. But with my press-fit tolerances, the Acrytle jumps like glass sometimes. I need to temper all parts to avoid it. I expect to have a model ready in a week’s time.
Best wishes for you, from here.
Now I have finished the design of my new lamp. The result is not what I wanted.
The light is super nice, but the design changes I made along the way, ad hoc, are not good. I think the whole proportions are broken. It is very unfortunate because it took me a lot of time and work and I have used a lot of material to test…
But, I have learned something again, the 2mm opal acrylic is great to use for lamps, as far as the light is concerned. I have made the frame itself in clear 3mm acrylic and this causes many problems during assembly. I don’t want to use glue, so my tolerances are tight. I have tried to give all edges a small radius to avoid stress damage, but it is not enough. Acrylic cannot withstand being exposed to pressure (in the wrong places), this applies to cast and rolled acrylic. (tempering didn’t help either)
I don’t know if I will go ahead with this project, use bigger dimensions and redesign the whole muck…
Now I will look at it for a few days, either I throw it out or I continue with a revised design.
But, the unique comes with the lines. PH has not made anything with straight lines. However, the PH3/2 lamp from 1925/26 fits well during the time period with the establishment of the Bauhaus School in Weimer 1919 and Poul Henningsen was deeply marked by this new movement. My lamp, which I am “constructing” is a mixture of both worlds, Art Nouveau - with its elegant playful curves and Bauhaus with its solid shapes and straight lines.
