I have a converted china machine . it had a m2 board I switched to a Ruida 6432. Everything seemed to be fine until I tried the rotary thing.
I added a driver for the 3 jaw rotary and wired a switch to break the y signal so you choose y or rotary.
now thats all in you can rotate the rotary as you should by the arrows on controller and also under move in lightburn.
issue is when you go to the rotary setup in Lightburn that when you use the test button to check settings the x trys to move not thr rotary.
I also believe that changing the steps in the rotary setup is not making changes to the controller
I did read the rotary setup info but Im going to go through it again
I really like to figure out and not toss $$$ out window buying a different controller
my intent was to be able to swap my machines all to lightburn but with out this I’m still doing tumblers on a old M2 machine
The setting on this driver determines your steps/rotation.
I hope you realize that this is no different than a hot swap of the axes if the switch is a break before make type? This is the most common type of switch.
I’ve done a hot swap since I’ve had my machine, about 5 years, but it’s against the grain of most people and is not a recommended action.
In actuality, it should be powered down then swapped.
You can set these rotation values for the rotary via the Machine Settings, to check your theory, but I think there is something else happening to cause this. I’ve never had to fiddle with these settings, but they are there.
So 100% it doesn’t make sense
I also talked to lightburn about this got same kind of answer
And was told it was going to their special team which I haven’t heard from in a month
Yes a rotary should be a simple setup
Yes I have reasonable knowledge
Not that in profile but
Heavily modded k40
Home built 100w 27x40 bed ruida controller
China machine converted to rudia 6432
50w omg fiber
(I will update)
I was try to use the gui in lightburn with hopes to get away from all the calculations and such I do with m2
So no I have not gone in and did step calculations
Also I don’t think (have to check but changing steps in location you have marked out
I don’t think makes a change on rotary rotation
I will have to check but I’m sure it was tried
Your stepper motor driver switch settings determine the value you put in the rotary gui.
Take your cell phone or whatever and post a photo of the motor driver switch settings. Also note the type of motor driver. I have DM542, I believe, but it could be a any number of them depending on what your vendor chose.
There is no real calculating with a chuck because they are generally one to one, or the motor directly drives the chuck.
So to walk through how it’s wired
Comes from controller to center of switch
On one side of switch the wires go to y driver on other side of switch goes to rotary driver
The rotary steps are 6400 according to the supplier of the rotary
And it’s also setup on a DM542 driver if hooked up on my fiber
Now on another note from talking with someone
The test button in the gui draws a square which I didn’t know until last night
So now I’m kinda wondering if not feeding the rotary enough power to get going
The motor data plate says 5.0 A and the stepper DIP switches are set for 2.84 A, so it’s likely a bit starved. Set SW1 SW2 SW3 = all off for 4.0 A and it’ll snap to attention with more enthusiasm.
You probably want SW 4 = off to cut the current down when the motor has been inactive for a while.
Sometimes isolating something works well… If you can plug your rotary directly into the Y axes without the switch, it would eliminate the switch from the circuit.
However, I don’t think that’s the issue.
Seems like the stepper is configured for 4000 steps/rotation? If I’m reading it correctly.
I reached out to Richard Zang he gave me the steps and told me the driver he uses
I might open cover on fiber to match up
Hopefully it’s driver settings
ok so I reached out to Richard he said 6400 for steps 24v and same driver. I also opened up my fiber to look at settings the amperage was 1.46 . Regardless of that i set mine up to the 4.0 to run test so far no changes next i will be removing the switch so it is direct to rotary to see if maybe the switch is causing issue
But the new thing was that after power up I hit stop on control as rotary turning and x homing
I then hit the down arrow the rotary turned for a bit then stopped I figured must hit end count
I then pushed the up direction and ran it a bit
Then I hit test it tuned some but it wouldn’t repeat
