You want this enabled or true, not false…
I told you why mine is false, but yours should be true. If it’s set it to false the Ruida will ignore it… which sounds like what it’s doing 
Or did I misunderstand you?
No, sorry, you misunderstand. The laser works whether it is set to false or true.
I understood your original post just fine. I just want to confirm something.
If it is set to false and the laser still works, does this mean the alarm enable is actually not working?
How do I test? Shut off the cooler and if it stops lasing that’s the proof it is working?
Go into the electronics cabinet and check for the signal being active at the input of the Ruida WP1. You should be able to measure the voltage here. It should be zero from ground to the WP1 input. If it isn’t, the chiller isn’t pulling the line low. Double check your connections.
The wp1 input has an led it’s number 9, if it’s active the led will illuminate.
If that’s ok then go to the Ruida machine console and press Z/U → diagnostics
In this screen you can see if the Ruida is sensing it. This is for the Y limit… but you should be able to read it and see a change in status of Water prot1 on the controller.
More than likely you mis-wired the connection…been there done that…
You can also check out the output at the chiller with an ohm meter. It should short (zero ohms) between H1 and H3 if the chiller is signalling properly.
I got it all working. I had a 1 hour paid session with MW Laser and he got me all sorted out!
Wonderful experience!
He even answered a 14 item question list I had covering a bunch of things I needed answers to.
Best money I’ve spent anywhere in years!
Highly recommended.
I’ve had people with issues and it took a call fro MW laser to get them back up… You’re right highly recommended…
Glad everything is working properly…
Any advise to others, besides a call to MW laser?
Take care
Yes. I’ll be sure to post a bunch of details to help others out with similar issues in the future.
To include both my original settings and the settings after the call. I’d be interested to have someone compare them and let me know what were the essential changes as I’m still new to it all.
I haven’t forgotten about this. I’ll try and make some time to share the lessons learned here shortly. Thanks.
Okay. Finally have some time to share the questions I had for MW laser and the results of the call.
I have to say again. He. Was. Awesome.
Definitely recommend him if you are in a tough spot. He has the experience to sort you out quickly and efficiently on a call.
He even answered 14 questions I had which I will post below. All beginner questions I needed answered in order to be able to use the machine.
This is the message I sent him before the scheduled skype video session. He used teamviewer to remote into the PC I have connected to the machine, so he was able to adjust everything himself directly. I’ll attach the before and after files to this thread for others to reference and compare what changed should it be of use. (Actually, I can’t see a way to attch files to this post. Is that not an option?)
Initial message with my questions and issues:
Okay. I’ve attached my RDworks and lightburn machine settings files as they stand right now tonight. For your reference.
I was able to calibrate XY already with a 100mm x 100mm square. Perfect. Works fine now.
Also, if it helps you to help me determine optimal settings, here are my motor and driver models:
X axis motor = 17HM19-2004S1 Stepper online
Y axis motor = 17HM19-1684D Stepper online
Z axis motor = 23CS22C-400 Cloudray
U axis motor = 57BYGH56H-A-23D Lunyee Industries for Rotary attachment.
Drivers = DM556 knockoffs. (400 pulses per revolution is the lowest setting these go down to)
X & Y set to on,on,on,off,off,on,on,on (e.g. 1.4A, half current, 400 pulses per revolution)
Z set to off,on,off,on,off,on,on,off (e.g. 4.3A, full current, 2000 pulses per revolution)
U set to on,on,on,off,off,on,on,on ( E.g. 1.4A half current, 400 pulses per revolution
Questions for the call:
- Any recommendations for optimizing my motors based on the above?
- For some reason my X+ and Y+ limits are activated (red squares). Not sure why. Actual limit switches are fine. They weren’t doing this before and I’m unsure why they’re red now in the diagnostics menu.
- Is there a way to zero out my Z axis? I need to calibrate it from max height to bottom (220mm of travel)
- How do I set Origin and home and get back to them via the Ruida control panel?
- How do I easily move the head to a position anywhere on the bed quickly?
- How do I adjust the physical laser nozzle up/down to be the correct height? What is the correct height? Does it matter? Does it affect focus?
- Should I use the red flow sensor I bought or just the CW-5202?
- How can I test if I already overheated and ruined my tube? Had a day with 5x overheat job attempts before I realized coolant wasn’t flowing. Laser ran but lased only half the flask. Finally realized. Bought CW05202 after. Now correctly cooling at 18 degrees C as per your video. Thank you!
- What is my laser tube wattage? They said they sold us an 80W but the LPS (laser power supply) is only 60 Watts.
- What is the best or recommended tube to buy next and what size? RECI?
- What sensors should I buy for my Z bed min/max sensors? I have some NPN long cylindrical type now.
- How do I use the camera to place workpieces accurately on the bed?
- [Optional if we have time]: How to calibrate Z distance.
- [Optional if we have time]: How to calibrate U rotary for bottles.
How do I upload my files?
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