Why is my cutting not working properly?

Hello LightBurn forum!

Today I tried to do my very first cut with the Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro S2 using LightBurn software.

I have made myself a .lbrn2 file, which displays lines in a 4x20 grid which takes up the size of an entire A4 size paper. I successfully uploaded it on LightBurn and it was on the screen and the size of it was also correct 21 x 29 cm.

How come my cutting was nowhere near what my design showed, neither in size neither in finishing vertical lines? Here is a video - LightBurn first cut - YouTube

I am kindly asking for a support :slight_smile:

There are setting in the laser window start from and job origin. Those need to be considered… both when doing the initial grid burn, but with whatever you chose to apply the grid to… other artwork…

Mostly when I cut jigs and such, I do it in absolute coordinates. Then I know it’s exactly where the object is on the workspace.


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I am so confused. Why is the picture that I put on the LightBurn grid proper size, but the laser is cutting it in such a small space, it does not even cut half of the page size.

If I read the parameters correctly, the cut layer is set to 6000 mm/min at 50% power. That seems aggressively fast and perhaps a bit low powered for a diode laser, even on colored paper.

Have you run a material test on that paper to establish the speeds and powers producing good results? If not, it’s always a worthwhile first step to eliminate a bunch of problems.

After verifying that, posting your *.lbrn2 file here will help other folks examine what’s going on.

You do have the machine and lightburn using the same units…?


Thank you for the input! I will run more tests, yes! Also, here is the .lbrn2 file I am using for my grids

I just went to Edit > Settings and I noticed that in the ‘‘File Settings’’ my units were set to Millimeters. I changed it to Centimeters. I hope this will make the laser cut the entirety of the A4 paper :smiley:

Okay, here is a massive update on how things are running for me in a format of YouTube videos, step by step.

  1. Settings Before Cutting - Settings Before Cutting - YouTube

  2. Laser Cutting Has Started - Laser Cutting Has Started - YouTube

  1. Why is it making this ROUGH noise when moving backwards? - Why is it making this ROUGH noise when moving backwards? - YouTube

  2. As it was coming towards the X axis, it was bumping repeatedly - As it was coming towards the X axis, it was bumping repeatedly - YouTube

And here is the 5. video of the results that I have - This is the new result - YouTube

The “native unit” for these machines is millimeter, so you may encounter some confusion between your values in cm and its values in mm. Unless you have a compelling reason to use cm, I’d recommend being consistent with millimeter; despite being a USA-ian, I use millimeter sizes in my shop.

You are running without the light shield in place around the laser output.

This makes no difference until the second mistake happens and you get a face full of coherent laser light. Blue light goes through your corneas to the retina and, because we all look toward the shiny thing, gets focused on your fovea. Worst case: you will never read another word for the rest of your life

Goggles protect you. The second mistake will blind the person who just walked into the room.

Back in the day, my job required watching the laser safety video where they destroyed a rabbit’s eyes in glorious slow-mo. Eye safety is a neurotic concern of mine, but I still have all the eyes I started with and you should, too.

It seems the Home switch for that axis does not make contact with the gantry before it hits the mechanical stop.

Go through the complete tune-up process here to eliminate many other problems:

Then adjust the Home switches:

That’s for a Sculpfun laser, but they’re all pretty much the same in terms of mechanical things that need adjusting.

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Than you for the input! There is still a lot to learn about laser cutting and how to maintain the best shape and form of doing so.

I am still struggling to understand why the design that I upload is meant for cutting the entire A4 paper, but when the actual laser cutting takes place it is so miniature, nothing like the scale of the design showing in the LightBurn Grid.

After you sort out the Homing problem, then draw something trivially easy, perhaps a 100 mm square positioned in the middle of the platform. If that cuts in the wrong position or the wrong size, it will be easier to debug.

Definitely true and probably not what you expected when you bought the laser. Unfortunately, the hype greatly exceeds the reality: you must learn how all the machinery works and how to fix the failures before having it Just Work™ like they promised.

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I am going through the link your provided for solving the homing problem. Just added the orange acryl shield to save my eyes and the eyes of others, even thou I work in a strictly personal work space, but I rather not risk the eyes of me nor anyone else. I will report back once I have made some improvements following the ''Guidance to mechanical adjustments and maintenance.

Yes, I quickly fell in love with this laser and I thought it will be a walk in a park to get the things going, but it is rather sophisticated and I need to learn more about it.

Thank you for all the info provided ednisley!

Also, the reason why I took off the protective shield from around the laser is because if I have it on, I get this result when homing - I am terrified - YouTube

I just got a reply from the LightBurnSoftware support about my issue regarding the scale at which the real print is going on relative to that of my uploaded design. After I followed their instruction, the problem is now fixed!

Yeah, you must adjust the position of the Home switch for that axis so that the switch closes before the laser whacks into the rail.

I used to think lasers would arrive correctly adjusted and ready to run, but that is obviously not the case.

I also used to think the seller would have assembly / setup instructions describing how to diagnose & fix problems, but that’s apparently not the case, either.

Have you have gone through the Ortur doc and firmware updates for your hardware:



In poking around the doc, it seems they depend on the motor drivers to detect ramming into the “limit switch”, which looks like a simple metal plate, rather than an electrical switch. However it works, the “switch” plate is incorrectly positioned, so that the collision isn’t as abrupt as the electronics requires to detect it.

Perhaps @OrturTech can give a better explanation of what’s going on with your hardware …

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Already following up in email support

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I love it when you use technical terms :crazy_face:


Loop us in on the solution, too, because this question is definitely gonna come up again …

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