Upgraded Laser tube and Power supply. Material test did not go well. Do I need to update any settings in light burn?

I think the offset values should be positive, not negative, which will have the effect of shifting alternate lines the other way.

It is not clear to me what the length units should be. Those look about right for millimeters, but AFAICT you have LightBurn set for inches (with speeds in mm/s), so “0.22” could be a quarter of an inch.

Eyeballometrically, the lines look like they’re shifted by a quarter of an inch in the wrong direction.

Divide the offsets by 25.4 and flip the sign, so -0.22 turns into 0.0087, and see if that improves the situation.

Test with settings at 0.0087. Did + and - just for fun.

Also, here are pulses at 25% 40ms. This is on a manila folder, I did the same with a piece of tape and it put a tiny hole in the very center.

Thank you for the help

Did you convert all the offsets in the table or just that one entry?

If all the table entries are now in inches, then IMO the tube is misfiring. That’s somewhat confirmed by the ragged start of each extended line, which should be a solid burn.

For example, on acrylic:

The hollow core, particularly in #3, shows the beam does not have the right profile.

Does not look good to me.

Looks like you’ve gotten a bad tube… Saying that, it isn’t likely it’s related to your scanning issue.


If it’s an upgrade I’d check it’s TEM resonance mode. I can see by M3 that it’s not right. The unmarked spot in the center should not exist.


On closer inspection of the spot at m1, it’s more doughnut shaped, it is lighter in the center, so there is less power there.

If you’re out of TEM00 mode, it may never align/work correctly.


Most tubes have a better beam quality at high power, you may below the bottom of your useful range. An RF tube is on or off, but they consistently has a better beam quality, some of which is from it being on at 100% power.

:smiley_cat:

I only tested the one @500mms just to see if there was any change.

Also it looks like the line shift is in inches (disregard the setting in the picture as it does not correlate with any of the pictures I posted)

If the line shift is in inches do I still need to convert?

LightBurn interpolates between the entries, so IMO you must measure and fill in the entire table. It may or may not work correctly with mostly incorrect entries, but while you’re trying to eliminate sources of trouble, being pedantically correct will eliminate many failures.

If you measured the offset in inches, then you set the offset in inches.

If you measured the offset in millimeters and put that numeric value in a field that interprets it as inches, then it’s wrong.

An offset of 0.13 inch = 3.3 mm: exactly what offset did you measure?

Mixed unit setting (length in inch + speed in mm/s) may be a continuing source of confusion and I have no idea how it works. FWIW, I switched to metric a long time ago and convert from inches whenever possible.

Been playing with the offset values, it changes the start point, but does not affect the beam staying on after the line ends.

I had to do some work with the machine so I put the old tube 50W (ish) back in the machine and left the new 80W power supply hooked up. Ran a couple test at low power. Still got the beam not shutting off at the correct place. Swapped in the old 50W power supply and things worked like they used to.

Not sure what that tells us specifically, but there might be some clues in it.

Let’s see, new power supply, either tube gets the same poor results. Old power supply works properly.

Problem is with the new power supply.

Don’t ask me what, why or how, I have no idea. Simple logic says it must be a problem with the new power supply.

Only difference that I know of is that the lps for the 80W will get to it’s 90% value of it’s voltage, likely trigger voltage, quicker. It should have a quicker response time over the 50W lps. Don’t think that’s the issue here.

I have to agree with @thelmuth that it’s got to be the lps. I’ve tried to figure out how you could change it, but keep coming up zip.

:smiley_cat:

Bad power supply!

We have not yet discovered whether the tube is also defective. Replacing the power supply as a first step will go a long way toward answering that question.

Sometimes the only way to diagnose the problem is to install replacement hardware, which seems extravagantly expensive until you realize it’s the only way.

To be clear, I did not use the old 50W power supply with the new 60W tube. I was not sure if it would cause any damage.

The power supplies differ in the maximum voltage and current applied to the tube. Higher power tubes are longer, so they require a higher triggering voltage, and also require more current to produce more optical power.

Using a power supply rated for a higher-power tube for a lower-power tube is more likely to cause damage than the other way around.

So testing the new 60W tube with the old 50W power supply would be ok, anything I should be aware of to avoide any damage when testing?

Basically, don’t go nuts: run it at moderate power levels and it should work well enough for testing. I’d expect it won’t fire correctly at low power levels (not enough voltage) and can’t reach its maximum power (not enough current). Manual pulses at 25% power will work fine, because the tube isn’t that different.

Power supplies should be adjusted to produce the appropriate maximum current for the tube they’re used with, but AFAICT they don’t arrive that way and (to a very good first approximation) nobody tweaks them after the fact.

Will do. Thanks!

I bought an OMTech China Blue 50W.. tube turned out to be only 880mm in length and would only produce 43W.

I’ve replaced it with a 45W tube, same lps. The lps is a 60W unit.

You get a faster response time with a larger lps

You should always set the lps to limit the current.. That should eliminate any issues.

:smiley_cat:

I was out of town, but now back and the saga continues.

I used the old 50W power supply with the new tube and it no longer has the problem with staying on past the off line.

Cloudray cust service is asking me to adjust the laser on delay and off delay. I dont see a setting to change that in Lightburn. I tried getting into the ruida controller, but do not have a password, I read that RD8888 or 888888 was common, but did not work. Thank you for any further thoughts and ideas.

Those may be hidden away well enough to require RDWorks to expose them. My experience has been they will be unable to tell you exactly where to find those values.

My guess: their text pattern matching suggested the time delays associated with the WIND output intended to control the exhaust blower, which is an entirely different thing.

Asking for the passwords matching your controller will be a further exercise in frustration. Because the functions restricted by those passwords are undocumented, even in comparison with the rest of the doc, there may be no recovery from a whoopsie.

I did the same sort of tube/power supply update as the OP did. I found that only negative values fixed the scan offset in my laser.

This is a long thread; we plowed that territory about two weeks ago … and it made no difference.